Dan Rock

Hi Victor, We don’t have any anycubic specific nozzles I’m afraid so I can’t guarantee any of our nozzles will work, I would suggest comparing our nozzle drawings to the stock anycubic ones to judge compatibility. All Nozzles

Hi Ronny, Yes, you can replace the stock hotend with a V6, you would most likely need to make modifications to both the mount and the firmware in order to do so. Suitable mounts can be found on thingiverse.com or alternatively you can design your own based of the drawings provided here: V6 Drawings Details on the required firmware modifications can be found here: V6 Firmware Guides

Hi Anders, If you are still using the aluminium heater block then 320°C is the absolute max, however, we would not really recommend pushing it past 300°C. If you are using the Plated Copper heater block then you are fine to print up to 500°C.

Hi Mitch, The Hemera fan should be set to 100%, wiring directly the power supply is a good option if you are unsure. (just make sure you have a correct voltage fan for the power supply you are using).

Hi Tony, Unfortunately, we have not tested the Hemera with the MMU so I cannot provide any firmware advice I’m afraid.

Hi Iceman, Yes, the heater cartridge wires can be shortened to the desired length.

Hi George, Thank you for linking to the statement, I have had a word with the marketing team to ensure that the statement is removed from the website as it is very misleading. Plated copper components require the same Hot-tightening procedure as you would expect with our other components. Ie, if you are printing above 285°C you need to hot tighten at a temperature at least 10°C above the temperature you will be printing at. In terms of recommended torque the same 3nm is suggested. Apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused.

Hi Gregory, The best place to look for mounts and part cooling ducts is Thingiverse.com

Hi Doug, We do not recommend any 3rd parts heatsink cooling fans at this point in time. We recommend wiring the stock Hemera fan to the power supply.

Hi Cody, If the temperature reading is incorrect at room temperature it would indicate the firmware hasn’t been set up correctly or there is a fault in the PT100, have you followed the troubleshooting steps outlined here: E3D PT100 Amplifier Documentation

it sounds like you are trying to mix 1.75mm and 2.85mm components, both the heat-sink and heat-break are filament diameter specific parts.

We would recommend wiring the heatsink cooling fan directly to the power supply.

Correct, thermal paste is only applied to the long thread section on the heatbreak.

The idea behind PID tuning is to obtain stable temperature, therefore it’s important that the PID tune is done with the same setup as you would use when printing, ie the same temperature, part cooling on (if you use it) and a silicone sock on.

Ideally not, you should aim for the heatbreak to be fastened inside the heatsink.

Hi Tie,

Please contact support@e3d-online.com with some images of your setup, a resistance reading of the thermistor, and the ambient temperature at the time of thermistor reading measurement.

This guide is for VREF adjustment, you are looking at the Esteps per mm value. If you are interested in learning more about E steps per mm I would recommend watching this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIHgDiCC...

For reference with x16 microstepping, you would need this value to be 409 with Hemera as a starting value. Further calibration may also be required.

Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I have amended the calculation.

I would recommend contacting the manufacturer of the SKR mini for guidance on how to change the VREF values.

Select the relevant COM port, Board type, and the processor according to your specific printer board. Then press upload.