Dan Rock

Hi Jaycen, The reason for our switch over to MatX (ASA) over ABS was specifically for the reduced risk of warping, meaning you don’t need to create super controlled environments/ build chambers, whilst maintaining very similar properties. Ultimately with any filament it is recommended that the printer is not situated next to an open window or a door that regularly opens/ closes to avoid such breezes. But for a standard indoor environment you shouldn’t have any issues. With all filaments we reccoemnd using the correct bed temperature and using a bed adhesive such as Dimafix or a glue stick.

Hi Tony, To fix the V6 Bowden mounting you will need this https://e3d-online.com/embedded-bowden-collets-for-metal-1-75mm-filament, to my knowledge the Prusa Printers leave out the collet clip during assembly,

Hi Danny, Bowden vs Direct drive isn’t necessarily a case of one being better than the other full stop. Bowden systems have the benefit of less weight on the tool head which means you can have higher acceleration and jerk values and can get away with slightly less rigid frames. The downsides are that the Bowden tube adds hysteresis or lag to the filament path making it more difficult to print with flexible materials and generally less filament control. Direct drive setups have the benefit of greater filament control due the constrained filament path making it a lot easier to print flexible materials, and for standard filaments it’s easier to control stringing and oozing. The downsides of direct drive setups are that the extruder and motor adds weight to the tool head, so in general the acceleration and jerk values have to be set slightly lower and when printing at faster speeds you are more likely to run into issues with print artefacts due to the frame wobbling.

Hi Tony, The Prusa specific heatbreaks have a slightly different internal geometry to help aid retraction with the MMU and MMU2. For single material printing the Titanium heatbreak is 100% compatible, however if you are using either the MMU or MMU2 then we would recommend using the Prusa specific heat break.

Hi Franklin, yes, you will need to plug the e3d stepper motor into the plug that the original extruder motor was plugged into on the printer main board.

Hi Parenthetical, The mount is not designed for a specific gantry, initially it was created for the Titan extruder and would just be mounted on the printer frame/ panel and not for a specific mounting gantry. If you have a specific gantry that you need to accommodated we would recommend looking at thingiverse.com for a suitable pre-designed mount or alternatively designing your own based on the technical drawings found here on the documentation pages. FYI if you do design your own mount make sure the spacer element between the the motor face and the black housing of the Titan Aero is 2mm.

Hi Patrick, No, you do not need a siphon the pump will actively circulate the water. Similarly no, it doesn’t matter what height you mount the water cooling kit at because the pump actively circulates the water it does not use a siphon.

Hi Dean, If the filament is being ground this is usually a sign of the filament tension being set too low, You should rotate the thumb screw clockwise until the filament stops being ground and extrudes reliably, you will now if you have tightened it too much if the motor starts to stall/ make a clicking sound.

Hi Peter, Yes you will need to modify your firmware in order to use our Thermistor, and also set the correct MIN and MAX temperatures so that the thermal runaway protection is working correctly. There are firmware guides to follow in regards to these modifications that can be found on the relevant HotEnd sections. We do not reccomend using 3rd party thermistors with our HotEnds, we would be unable to provide support in the event of any damage caused by doing so. There are several videos online that outline the firmware flashing process I would recommend searching for Thomas Sanladerer.

Hi Gungun, We do not have example parameters for specific slicers or specific printers due to the fact that every printer will require different settings and calibration to run well. The only constant among all our hot ends is the maximum retraction length of 2mm. We advise using calibration prints that can be found on thingyverse.com to dial in the correct for your specific printer, filament and environment.

The warning above is to prevent deformation of the cartridge which can lead to incorrect temperature readings. The thermistor cartridge should not be loose at any temperature, this can be very dangerous and could lead to thermal runaway. Make sure the thermistor is not able to slip out the heater block you will be able to do this at room temperature. You will be able to tell if you have tightened the grub screw enough when you do a gentle tug test.

The final orientation of the Heater block can be adjusted during the Hot tightening stage by orientating the heater block with a pair of pliers and holding it there whilst you tighten the nozzle.

The Hot tightening is at step 39.

Make sure the spacer you are using is 2 mm thick, if yours is thicker than this you will have issues. If your spacer is 2mm thick then double check that there are no print artefacts that are increasing this thickness, if possible use a file to tidy up the mounting surface.

Hi Joe,

If you contact support@e3d-online.com we will be able to help you out with this.

The firmware settings are vital due to the change of thermistor type, if you do not change these settings you risk over heating your hot end which can be potentially dangerous. It is also important to set the min an max temps to make sure that the thermal runaway detection works as it is intended to to prevent issues such as the above mentioned. The steps outlined on the Firmware updating pages should be a case of reading through and just changing a few lines in the firmware, if you have troubles with this you should contact support@e3d-online.com for further guidance.