Introduction

V6 Assembly is easy, and we provide most of the tools you'll need. Please note, though, that you should be very careful of the following safety cautions:

  • Be aware of your electronics. Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.
  • Be aware when you heat up your new hotend not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.
  • The standard V6 is capable of printing up to 285°C, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the thermistor cartridge with a PT100, the aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.
  • The firmware modification is not optional it is a mandatory step,
  • Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match the power supply of your printer. All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge.
  • Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire. If you are unsure double check the rating on your power supply.
  • Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.
  1. You'll need the following parts: Heater Block
    • You'll need the following parts:

    • Heater Block

    • Nozzle

    • Heat Break

  2. Before starting work on your heater block, make sure that you're going to screw your nozzle into the correct side.
    • Before starting work on your heater block, make sure that you're going to screw your nozzle into the correct side.

    • You should be looking at the side of the heater block with three holes in it

  3. Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block. Don't worry about tightness yet. Then, unscrew the nozzle a full turn. This will leave a little space to tighten after screwing in the heat break. Then, unscrew the nozzle a full turn. This will leave a little space to tighten after screwing in the heat break.
    • Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block. Don't worry about tightness yet.

    • Then, unscrew the nozzle a full turn. This will leave a little space to tighten after screwing in the heat break.

  4. Screw in the heat break until it touches the nozzle. Tighten the nozzle against the heat break. No need to over tighten, we'll be hot-tightening later.
    • Screw in the heat break until it touches the nozzle.

    • Tighten the nozzle against the heat break. No need to over tighten, we'll be hot-tightening later.

  5. Double check that your nozzle is still almost flush with your heater block. If there is significant space between the nozzle top and the heater block you should re-adjust your nozzle and heat break to eliminate that space.
    • Double check that your nozzle is still almost flush with your heater block.

    • If there is significant space between the nozzle top and the heater block you should re-adjust your nozzle and heat break to eliminate that space.

  6. Gather the parts you'll need to install the thermistor:
    • Gather the parts you'll need to install the thermistor:

    • Thermistor Cartridge

    • M3 Grub Screw

    • The Smaller, 1.5mm Hex Wrench

    • Heater Block

  7. Slide in the thermistor cartridge. You can slide the cartridge in either direction so that the wires extend from one side or the other of your heater block. Think about how you'll be organising your wiring to decide which makes sense for your printer.
    • Slide in the thermistor cartridge.

    • You can slide the cartridge in either direction so that the wires extend from one side or the other of your heater block. Think about how you'll be organising your wiring to decide which makes sense for your printer.

  8. Screw in grub screw until it just touches the thermistor. Tighten M3 grub screw by an 1/8 of a turn.
    • Screw in grub screw until it just touches the thermistor.

    • Tighten M3 grub screw by an 1/8 of a turn.

    • Do not over tighten the screw. The copper thermistor cartridge is relatively soft, and you might deform it if you over-tighten the screw.

    • Deformation of the cartridge can make it difficult to remove at a later date.

    • Cracking of the potting ceramic resulting in poorer thermal response or in extreme circumstances, short circuit.

  9. Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you both purchased and received the correct voltage cartridge. Cartridges are laser etched with their voltage, but all it is worth double-checking anyway. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.
    • Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you both purchased and received the correct voltage cartridge. Cartridges are laser etched with their voltage, but all it is worth double-checking anyway. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.

    • If you have a 12v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 4.8Ω

    • If you have a 24v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 19.2Ω

    • Your cartridges resistance may deviate slightly from these numbers, which is fine. We're mostly interested in verifying which cartridge type you have.

    • If you have a 12v 40w heater cartridge your multimeter should read 3.6Ω

    • If you have a 24v 40w heater cartridge your multimeter should read 14.4Ω

    You should include the readings for the 40w cartridges, too.

    Jonnie Cache - Reply

    Agree. My 24V 40W heater is measuring 14 ohms, if that helps.

    Paul - Reply

    My heater cartridge does not have bare wires exposed as shown in the photo above. The wires are encased in a connector housing that is not accessible to the DVM probes. Suggest you show a photo of cartridges having this configuration and that you provide a recommendation/approach on how to make the required measurement.

    Leon Bruner - Reply

  10. Gather the parts you'll need to install your heater cartridge:
    • Gather the parts you'll need to install your heater cartridge:

    • Heater Block

    • Heater Cartridge

    • The Larger, 2.5mm Hex Wrench

    • One of the longer, M3x10 Screws.

  11. Slide in the heater cartridge. Typically you'd want the wires to come out the same side as your thermistor wires.
    • Slide in the heater cartridge. Typically you'd want the wires to come out the same side as your thermistor wires.

    • It's fine if the cartridge protrudes a bit from both sides of the heater block.

  12. Tighten the M3 x 10 socket dome screw with 2 mm hex key until the clamp deforms slightly (as shown in the second picture). Tighten the M3 x 10 socket dome screw with 2 mm hex key until the clamp deforms slightly (as shown in the second picture).
    • Tighten the M3 x 10 socket dome screw with 2 mm hex key until the clamp deforms slightly (as shown in the second picture).

    There is no washer. It’s just a button head bolt.

    tedder - Reply

    Hi Tedder,

    The current versions of the V6 kits don’t use a washer you can proceed without one, thank you for the heads up I will update this section.

    Dan Rock -

    Hi Tedder,

    The current versions of the V6 kits don’t use a washer you can proceed without one, thank you for the heads up I will update this section.

    Dan Rock -

  13. Before moving on, gently tug on your thermistor and heater cartridge wires. We don't want them slipping out during a print!
    • Before moving on, gently tug on your thermistor and heater cartridge wires. We don't want them slipping out during a print!

    • Be careful the thermistor wires are very fragile if you tug too hard it will cause damage to the thermistor.

  14. Gather the following parts:
    • Gather the following parts:

    • Heater Block

    • Heatsink

    • Thermal Paste Sachet (not pictured)

  15. Apply thermal compound the the thread of the heat break. You don't need to use the whole sachet. After you're done, screw in the heatsink. It only needs to be hand-tight.
    • Apply thermal compound the the thread of the heat break. You don't need to use the whole sachet.

    • After you're done, screw in the heatsink. It only needs to be hand-tight.

    • Don't use any thermal paste elsewhere on your hotend

    • Wash your hands once you're done working with the paste

  16. Gather the following parts:
    • Gather the following parts:

    • Assembled Hotend

    • Collet

    • Collet Clip

    • PTFE Tubing (at least 70mm long)

  17. Insert the small black collet into the top of the Heatsink, the side with the four small legs should push into the brass ring in the top of the heatsink with gentle finger pressure. Insert the small black collet into the top of the Heatsink, the side with the four small legs should push into the brass ring in the top of the heatsink with gentle finger pressure.
    • Insert the small black collet into the top of the Heatsink, the side with the four small legs should push into the brass ring in the top of the heatsink with gentle finger pressure.

    This step is not required when using the E3D Titan Extruder in a Direct Drive configuration.

    Berend - Reply

    What is the thickness spec on the clip. My clip has gone missing. I need a replacement or substitute. 2 e-cilps appears to be too much.

    Ralph Heady - Reply

  18. To make sure that the end of the PTFE tubing that will sit inside your hotend is square and flat, cut a slice off with a very sharp knife (a craft knife with razor sharp blade is recommended for this).
    • To make sure that the end of the PTFE tubing that will sit inside your hotend is square and flat, cut a slice off with a very sharp knife (a craft knife with razor sharp blade is recommended for this).

    The PTFE tubing is not included in parts list above. I suggest you add it with a photo. The reason for making this suggestion is that the tubing in my kit is blue, rather than white. I’m therefore not certain that this the correct tubing to use.

    Leon Bruner - Reply

  19. Insert the PTFE tubing all the way down until it reaches the top of the Heat Break. Slide the collet clip in between the collet lip and the aluminium to lock the PTFE tube in place.
    • Insert the PTFE tubing all the way down until it reaches the top of the Heat Break.

    • Slide the collet clip in between the collet lip and the aluminium to lock the PTFE tube in place.

    • TO release the PTFE tubing, remove the collet clip, press down on the collet whilst pulling out the PTFE tube.

    This step is not required when using a Titan Extruder in the Direct Drive configuration - just push in the PTFE tubing and continue with the Titan Extruder guide.

    Berend - Reply

    The Step 17 and 18 I had ok, but I can’t insert PTFE tube inside - Step 19, because there are too tight, the four small legs not allow to insert the tube. The tube inside is appr. 6mm only. Without Step 17, it’s ok, the tube easy go inside appr. 30mm, 2-3mm in the screw. But in this case, the Collect clip and the Collect ring not place or grap. I have Bondtech dual drive direct Extruder and I think there not necessary the Collect clip and the Collect ring.

    Armins Senkans - Reply

    Its impossible to slide PTFE tube till heatbreak when collet clip is around collet. Maybe the clip should be added after tube is inserted?

    Alvar Udras - Reply

  20. Gather the Following
    • Gather the Following

    • Hotend

    • 30mm Fan

    • 4 Plast-fast Pozidriv -head Self-tapping Screws

    • Fan Duct

  21. Make sure the screw heads are on the non-sticker side on the fan.
    • Make sure the screw heads are on the non-sticker side on the fan.

    • Screw the Plastfast screws partially into the fan.

    • The screws should not be sticking out of the opposite side yet.

  22. Think about where you want your fan's wires to come out before screwing it on. (You can mount the fan duct facing either way on your HotEnd)
    • Think about where you want your fan's wires to come out before screwing it on. (You can mount the fan duct facing either way on your HotEnd)

    • Screw the fan onto the fan duct. You may require a lot of torque and will therefore need a well-fitting screwdriver.

    • Don't worry about getting the screws 100% tightened, you just need to secure the fan.

  23. Clip the duct onto heatsink
    • Clip the duct onto heatsink

    • Make sure the duct covers the fin closest to the heater block.

    • The little over-hang can face up, down, depending on your setup.

  24. Plug the extension wires into your thermistor and fan. The other ends will go into your printer's electronics board. If you're replacing an old HotEnd, note where its wires were plugged in and mirror those for your new V6.
    • Plug the extension wires into your thermistor and fan. The other ends will go into your printer's electronics board.

    • If you're replacing an old HotEnd, note where its wires were plugged in and mirror those for your new V6.

    • If you're building a new printer, you may need to consult the documentation for your electronics board to see where to plug in everything.

    • Use the included cable tie to link the connections together for strain relief.

    • Take a little while to properly organise your wiring so that it doesn't get snagged on any corner of your printer.

    • Configuring your firmware is different depending on the type your printer uses. Follow one of the links below for guides on how to update each of the most popular firmware. When you're done, continue in this guide.

    • Marlin

    • Repetier

    • Smoothieware

    • RepRap Firmware

  25. Hot-tightening is the last mechanical step before your V6 is ready to go! Hot-tightening is essential to sealing the nozzle and heatbreak together to ensure that molten plastic cannot leak out of the hotend in use.
    • Hot-tightening is the last mechanical step before your V6 is ready to go! Hot-tightening is essential to sealing the nozzle and heatbreak together to ensure that molten plastic cannot leak out of the hotend in use.

    • Using your printer's control software (or LCD screen), set the hotend temperature to 285°C. Allow the hotend to reach 285°C and wait one minute to allow all components to equalise in temperature.

    • Gently tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block still with a spanner and using a smaller 7mm spanner to tighten the nozzle. This will tighten the nozzle against the Heatbreak and ensure that your hotend does not leak.

    • You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle—this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner.

  26. Gather the following:
    • Gather the following:

    • Silicone Sock, one of either:

    • Pro Sock

    • Or Normal Sock

    • Your HotEnd

  27. First, let your hotend cool down.
    • First, let your hotend cool down.

    • Slip your silicone sock over the hotend. Try to get each of the little clips on the top of the heat block so the sock will stay on better.

    • It may look like your sock doesn't quite fit. Don't worry, when you heat up your HotEnd, the sock will expand, and the clips will fit just fine.

  28. If you're using the pro sock make sure that the tip of the nozzle protrudes from the sock. If you're using a normal sock, it should look like the second picture when you're finished.
    • If you're using the pro sock make sure that the tip of the nozzle protrudes from the sock.

    • If you're using a normal sock, it should look like the second picture when you're finished.

    • Whenever you install a new hotend, it's important to run a PID tune. This will allow your printer to adjust some internal parameters so that it can learn how your hotend heats up. This way, your printer can anticipate how much power it needs to give your hotend to get it up to temperature, but not over.

    • Use a computer to connect to your printer. If you have a typical RepRap printer, you can use PrintRun, Repetier Host, Simplify3D, or MatterControl.

    • Other, closed-source, printers may be better suited to their manufacturer's recommended printer control software.

  29. Make sure you have your hotend in a place where it can get hot without damaging anything or setting any fires! Mounted on your printer or held with a spanner will work fine. Take care not to touch your hotend when it heats up. Send the command M303 to autotune your PID. For more detailed instructions, check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information. Not all firmware supports PID autotuning, and you may need to tune manually.
    • Make sure you have your hotend in a place where it can get hot without damaging anything or setting any fires! Mounted on your printer or held with a spanner will work fine. Take care not to touch your hotend when it heats up.

    • Send the command M303 to autotune your PID. For more detailed instructions, check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information.

    • Not all firmware supports PID autotuning, and you may need to tune manually.

    • We recommend running two PID tunes for the V6, one now and one later at at normal printing temperatures, with filament in the hotend, sock attached, and with an active cooling fan on if you're planning on using one. This way your printer can finely tune its settings to match your real printing environment.

    • Typically you will use M303 E0 S210 C8. It will take a few minutes to run through the 8 cycles (C8) - it should then show a Kp Ki and Kd value. Write these down/ remember them for the next step.

    • Follow this with M301 P17.28 I0.63 D118.87 (These values will be different for you)

    • Then you can type M500 to store these value to your EEPROM, Optionally you can enter these values into your firmware manually.

    • For this example we have used Proterface on a printer running Repetier firmware.

    • For the Duet Wifi/ Ethernet running RepRap firmware the PID setup is slightly different:

    • M303 H1 P0.5 S240

    • M307 H1 - display the result.

    • This should give you something that looks like this:

    • M307 H1 A352.6 C122.2 D8.0 S1 B0 - put these value into config.g

    • For more information please visit : https://betrue3d.dk/duet-wifi-configurat...

  30. In your slicer of preference find the retraction settings. In Slic3r this is in printer settings. Start with a retraction length of 1mm
    • In your slicer of preference find the retraction settings. In Slic3r this is in printer settings.

    • Start with a retraction length of 1mm

    • If you experience blobs or stringing on the surface of the print increase the retraction length to 2mm.

    • Do not increase the retraction length more than 2mm as this can lead to molten plastic being pulled into the heat break, increasing the likelihood of jams.

    • You're now ready to go! Remember you'll have to update your slicer settings a little:

    • Check your nozzle diameter in your slicer. All V6 kits ship with a 0.40mm brass nozzle.

    • Having very long retraction settings will cause problems.

    • For direct extrusion systems you should use anywhere from 0.5mm–2mm of retraction.

    • For bowden systems you need to use the same as with direct + the compression strain, which will depend on the length of your Bowden tube.

    • Print PLAs at 205–215°C, and ABS at ~240°C. For other materials check with their manufacturer

    But what if it would need more than 2 or even 3mm for bowden tube setup? How far i could go?

    WaGi - Reply

Finish Line

17 other people completed this guide.

Gabe S.

Member since: 08/08/2017

13,438 Reputation

41 Guides authored

16 Comments

I have noticed that my nozzle offset is slightly shifted with the new V6 (versus the nozzle that originally came with my printer). What is the best way to adjust for this offset, firmware, starting g-code, other?

Helmut Brenner - Reply

I’d recommend you put the new offsets directly into your firmware. You’ll need to change the firmware anyway, so it’s a good time to account for the offsets. You can also use starting script gcode, but there’s no point doing that if you have a single Extruder.

John Bamford -

Steps 16 through 19; is there any difference if using the ‘direct’ or ‘Bowden’ versions of the V6, or are they the same parts and steps?

James Laine - Reply

For the 1.75 millimetre version, the heat sink is the same for Bowden and direct, so the only difference is the length of the tube. For the 2.85 millimetre version, the heat sink for the Bowden version is a little different from the direct. You still insert PTFE for 2.85 millimetre Bowden version, but it doesn’t slot in as far. For a 2.85 millimetre direct version, you don’t use PTFE at all.

John Bamford -

screw used in step 20 is PZ1 size not Philips one so is need PZ screwdriwer not PH one :)

Martins - Reply

Is updating the Frimware Necessary? i dont know how to update the firmware for my anet a8, I use cura if that changes anything

If updating is necssary: why is it neccessary?

jacob - Reply

The firmware settings are vital due to the change of thermistor type, if you do not change these settings you risk over heating your hot end which can be potentially dangerous. It is also important to set the min an max temps to make sure that the thermal runaway detection works as it is intended to to prevent issues such as the above mentioned. The steps outlined on the Firmware updating pages should be a case of reading through and just changing a few lines in the firmware, if you have troubles with this you should contact support@e3d-online.com for further guidance.

Dan Rock -

Step 19 says….

Insert the PTFE tubing. The collet clip should pre-tension the tubing and lock it into the hotend; the tubing should be held securely downwards without any ability to wiggle or move.

How far in “mm” should the PTFE tube be inserted? When I fed in the PTFE tube it went just past the black collet and I did not want to force it any further by hand. If I removed the blue clip, I was able to insert the PTFE to the stop in the heat break. Then I reseated the blue clip. Clarification on the instructions is required.

Israel Andrade - Reply

Bowden tube must go down into the top of the Heatbreak. It’s quite a bit of distance actually.

Morten Nielsen -

To GabeS:

Excellent job in putting this guide together. It should be a great help to anyone setting up their E3d-V6 and maintaining it. Thank you!

Edmund Williams - Reply

My filament doesn’t go through the Heat Break. The way it is designed causes the filament to get wedged against the wall with the slightest bend. Any way around this or did I get a wonky heat break? I would have designed the heat break inlet to be like a cone like shape to help guide the filament to the hotend.

Derek - Reply

These directions are too casual about how tight things need to be assembled. I put mine together per the directions, put it into my Prusa I3 v2.5 and while routing the wires, the heater block rotated from the heat sink. I had to dissemble the extruder assembly smf re tighten everything. Guess what? it happened a second time. The second time I tightened everything much tighter.

Saying, “Don’t worry about how tight things are, we will tighten things later” is not adequate.

PhilGGG - Reply

I’m as well a bit curious as to why I need to update firmware with this new hot end. It’s just a new hot end. Why would anything need to change when it’s still a 12v heater cartridge and thermistor. I’m regretting getting this hot end already having not known about having to deal with firmware changes. I’ve got an Anycubic I3 Mega and it once printed fine but my issues most likely reside in the bed carriage assembly. The ONLY difference I see and like about the E3D hot end is your clipped on heat sink fan. What really is the magic about your hot end that makes it a step above everyone else’s? I’m just curious.

Jason Stewart - Reply

Assembling my kit now and I didn’t get a M3 washer for the step when you fasten the heater, how essential is it?

t.andersson@outlook.com - Reply

The M3 washer isn’t necessary, the latest iteration of the V6 kits don’t include the washer anymore as it wasn’t a necessary step.

Dan Rock -

When you do not receive the thermistor, you can’t even do it through step 6. Weird for this price

WaGi - Reply

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