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Upgrading to a Volcano

Written By: Gabe S. (and 2 other contributors)
  • Comments: 6
  • Favorites: 0
  • Completions: 6

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

18

Time Required

Suggest a time??

Sections

2

Flags

0

  1. Gather the following:

    • Gather the following:

    • Thermistor Cartridge

    • Volcano Heater Block

    • Smaller, 1.5mm Hex Wrench

    • One of the M3 Grub Screws

    Edit

  2. Make sure you're looking at the side of your heater block that has little indents for wiring on it.

    • Make sure you're looking at the side of your heater block that has little indents for wiring on it.

    Edit

  3. Slide in the thermistor cartridge all the way Slide in the thermistor cartridge all the way

    • Slide in the thermistor cartridge all the way

    Edit

  4. Screw in the grub screw until it just touches the thermistor cartridge Tighten the screw by another 1/8th of a turn.

    • Screw in the grub screw until it just touches the thermistor cartridge

    • Tighten the screw by another 1/8th of a turn.

    • Do not over tighten the screw, or you will damage the thermistor cartridge. If the thermistor can't be pulled out with gentle tugging you should be fine.

    Edit

  5. Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you got the correct voltage cartridge. They are laser etched with their voltage, but all it is worth double-checking anyway. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.

    • Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you got the correct voltage cartridge. They are laser etched with their voltage, but all it is worth double-checking anyway. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.

    • If you have a 12v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 4.8Ω

    • If you have a 24v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 19.2Ω

    • Your cartridges resistance may deviate slightly from these numbers, which is fine. We're mostly interested in verifying which cartridge type you have.

    Edit

  6. Gather the following:

    • Gather the following:

    • Heater Block

    • Heater Cartridge

    • The Larger, 2.5mm Hex Wrench

    • Two of the Longer, M3x10mm Screws

    • Two M3 Washers (optional)

    Edit

  8. Slide in the heater cartridge all the way. Depending on the exact size of your cartridge, it may protrude a little from the bottom of the block, which is fine. Remember, the wires should be coming out of the top of the heater block, which is the side with the little indent.

    • Slide in the heater cartridge all the way. Depending on the exact size of your cartridge, it may protrude a little from the bottom of the block, which is fine.

    • Remember, the wires should be coming out of the top of the heater block, which is the side with the little indent.

    Edit

  9. Tighten the M3x15mm socket dome screws (with the M3 washers on them) with 2.5 mm hex wrench until the clamp deforms slightly. If you don't have enough washers, that's fine, they just help clamp the cartridge.

    • Tighten the M3x15mm socket dome screws (with the M3 washers on them) with 2.5 mm hex wrench until the clamp deforms slightly.

    • If you don't have enough washers, that's fine, they just help clamp the cartridge.

    • You do not need to worry about over-tightening the screws; the heater cartridge is made of steel and is very tough, unlike the thermistor cartridge.

    • When you eventually screw on the heater block to your heat break and heat sink, you will have to bend the heater cartridge wires down almost horizontally. This is normal. The wires are strong enough to be bent like this.

    • The screw needs to pass through a clearance hole and then into the threaded side in order to clamp the heater cartridge. Screwing directly into the threaded hole will not clamp the heater block and risk stripping the threads.

    Edit

  10. Tug gently on both your heater cartridge and thermistor cartridge to make sure they stay in place.

    • Tug gently on both your heater cartridge and thermistor cartridge to make sure they stay in place.

    Edit

  11. Gather the following:

    • Gather the following:

    • Volcano Nozzle

    • Assembled Heater Block

    Edit

  12. Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block on the side opposite the wires from your electronics. Don't worry about tightness yet. Unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn. Unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn.

    • Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block on the side opposite the wires from your electronics. Don't worry about tightness yet.

    • Unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn.

    Edit

  13. Gather:

    • Gather:

    • Your old V6, Lite6, or Titan Aero

    • Your new Volcano Heater Block

    Edit

  14. Make sure your printer is cooled down, powered off, and unplugged before working on it! Unscrew your old heater block from the rest of the HotEnd body.

    • Make sure your printer is cooled down, powered off, and unplugged before working on it!

    • Unscrew your old heater block from the rest of the HotEnd body.

    • If you're working on a V6, make sure that the heat break stays screwed in to your heatsink (or screw it back in if it came out).

    • If you're having trouble unscrewing your heater block, you might want to heat up your HotEnd to loosen it a bit. BE VERY CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T BURN YOURSELF.

    Edit

  15. Screw on your new Volcano heater block until it is hand-tight. You'll be hot-tightening again later. You will have to bend down the heater cartridge wires to get them to fit in the little indent at the top of the heater block. This is normal, and you won't damage it.

    • Screw on your new Volcano heater block until it is hand-tight. You'll be hot-tightening again later.

    • You will have to bend down the heater cartridge wires to get them to fit in the little indent at the top of the heater block. This is normal, and you won't damage it.

    • As when you built your first HotEnd, make sure that the nozzle is close to being flush with the heater block after screwing everything in. If your heater block is right up against the heatsink, you'll have issues printing.

    Edit

    • Plug in your new electronics to your printer's electronics board. They'll go in the same places your old ones were plugged in.

    Edit

    • Since you've changed your HotEnd, you should run a fresh PID tune on your printer.

    • Make sure you have your hotend in a place where it can get hot without damaging anything or setting any fires! Mounted on your printer or held with a spanner will work fine. Take care not to touch your hotend when it heats up.

    • Send the command M303 to autotune your PID. For more detailed instructions, check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information.

    Edit

  18. You need to hot-tighten your HotEnd again before using it.

    • You need to hot-tighten your HotEnd again before using it.

    • As before, heat up your printer to 285°C (240°C for the Lite6) and let it rest at temperature for a minute.

    • Gently tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block still with a spanner and using a smaller 7mm spanner to tighten the nozzle. This will tighten the nozzle against the Heatsink and ensure that your hotend does not leak.

    • You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle—this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner.

    Edit

    • Congratulations, you're done!

    • Please remember that your new Volcano is about 8.5mm longer than your old V6, so you will likely have to adjust your Z endstop so that it doesn't smash into your build plate.

    • As far as slicing settings go, you'll likely only have to update your nozzle diameter and layer height. We recommend starting with the 0.80mm nozzle, and 0.60mm layer heights.

    Edit
Finish Line

6 other people completed this guide.

Author

with 2 other contributors

Gabe S.

Member since: 08/08/2017

14,576 Reputation

41 Guides authored

5 Comments

Add a comment

Are there higher requirements for the fan airflow when upgrading to the volcano?

Does the larger melt zone have implications on retraction settings, or ooze control?

Paul H - Reply

Volcano hotend actually is better for heatsink cooling as most of the heat is guided towards the nozzle. Same basic heating, just now aligned with the nozzle so more heat goes in the filament. You may need to drop print temperature slightly as the efficiency is greater your filament can fully melt at lower temperatures compared to over heating in smaller blocks to overcome thermal resistance. This more constant temperature stops bubbling the filament and decreases ooze, retraction setting need to be tuned, slower speeds work better, don't want to suck up air only decrease built up pressure.

DrGOwen -

Question, is the Volcano compatibele with the Hemera?

And what for firmware chances do i have to make? my current setup is a CR10S with the hemera (12 volt)

Rick Treffers - Reply

Hemera and volcano are an awesome combo. Standard Hemera block thread is 6mx1.0 same as Volcano.

Must do a hot tighten as per instructions. Volcano plus force of Hemera if not tighten correctly makes an wonderful spaghetti fountain across your 3d printer. Speaking from experience and a rushed first build.

DrGOwen -

Question is the super volcano is compatible with the aqua titan? What changes igot to make to the firmware with 32bit board ender 3 pro. What tempeture range i could get with this setting safely?

Davinchi - Reply

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