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Gather the following:
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Thermistor Cartridge
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Volcano Heater Block
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Smaller, 1.5mm Hex Wrench
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One of the M3 Grub Screws
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Make sure you're looking at the side of your heater block that has little indents for wiring on it.
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Screw in the grub screw until it just touches the thermistor cartridge
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Tighten the screw by another 1/8th of a turn.
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Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you got the correct voltage cartridge. They are laser etched with their voltage, but all it is worth double-checking anyway. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.
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If you have a 12v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 4.8Ω
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If you have a 24v30w heater cartridge, your multimeter should read 19.2Ω
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Your cartridges resistance may deviate slightly from these numbers, which is fine. We're mostly interested in verifying which cartridge type you have.
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Gather the following:
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Heater Block
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Heater Cartridge
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The Larger, 2.5mm Hex Wrench
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Two of the Longer, M3x10mm Screws
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Two M3 Washers (optional)
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Slide in the heater cartridge all the way. Depending on the exact size of your cartridge, it may protrude a little from the bottom of the block, which is fine.
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Remember, the wires should be coming out of the top of the heater block, which is the side with the little indent.
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Tighten the M3x15mm socket dome screws (with the M3 washers on them) with 2.5 mm hex wrench until the clamp deforms slightly.
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You do not need to worry about over-tightening the screws; the heater cartridge is made of steel and is very tough, unlike the thermistor cartridge.
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Tug gently on both your heater cartridge and thermistor cartridge to make sure they stay in place.
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Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block on the side opposite the wires from your electronics. Don't worry about tightness yet.
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Unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn.
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Gather:
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Your old V6, Lite6, or Titan Aero
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Your new Volcano Heater Block
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Plug in your new electronics to your printer's electronics board. They'll go in the same places your old ones were plugged in.
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Since you've changed your HotEnd, you should run a fresh PID tune on your printer.
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Send the command M303 to autotune your PID. For more detailed instructions, check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information.
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You need to hot-tighten your HotEnd again before using it.
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As before, heat up your printer to 285°C (240°C for the Lite6) and let it rest at temperature for a minute.
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Gently tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block still with a spanner and using a smaller 7mm spanner to tighten the nozzle. This will tighten the nozzle against the Heatsink and ensure that your hotend does not leak.
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You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle—this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner.
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5 Comments
Are there higher requirements for the fan airflow when upgrading to the volcano?
Does the larger melt zone have implications on retraction settings, or ooze control?
Volcano hotend actually is better for heatsink cooling as most of the heat is guided towards the nozzle. Same basic heating, just now aligned with the nozzle so more heat goes in the filament. You may need to drop print temperature slightly as the efficiency is greater your filament can fully melt at lower temperatures compared to over heating in smaller blocks to overcome thermal resistance. This more constant temperature stops bubbling the filament and decreases ooze, retraction setting need to be tuned, slower speeds work better, don't want to suck up air only decrease built up pressure.
DrGOwen -
Question, is the Volcano compatibele with the Hemera?
And what for firmware chances do i have to make? my current setup is a CR10S with the hemera (12 volt)
Hemera and volcano are an awesome combo. Standard Hemera block thread is 6mx1.0 same as Volcano.
Must do a hot tighten as per instructions. Volcano plus force of Hemera if not tighten correctly makes an wonderful spaghetti fountain across your 3d printer. Speaking from experience and a rushed first build.
DrGOwen -