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    • First things first: you're going to need a copy of Marlin.

    • If you are upgrading an existing 3D printer to use a Titan, you should try to get a copy of your current firmware from your printer's manufacturer.

    • If you're building a new printer, or simply want to upgrade to the latest version of Marlin, download it at http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/

    • If you download a fresh version of Marlin you'll have to configure more settings than the ones mentioned in this guide so that it will work well with your printer.

  1. Almost all printers use Arduino IDE to upload fresh firmware, so download it at https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
    • Unzip Marlin from the zip file you downloaded and put the resulting folder anywhere on your computer for safe keeping.

    • Inside this folder, navigate to the Marlin sub-folder, and open the Marlin.ino file. This should open every file in Marlin.

    • Find the Configuration.h file

  2. If your old extruder was ungeared, you'll notice that your new Titan extrudes backwards!
    • If your old extruder was ungeared, you'll notice that your new Titan extrudes backwards!

    • Flip the folowing line in the Configuration.h file from true to false, or vice versa: INVERT_E0_DIR

  3. The next thing we'll have to update is your printer's E-steps-per-mm.
    • The next thing we'll have to update is your printer's E-steps-per-mm.

    • Your slicer will generate G-Code for your printer, which will tell it to extrude a certain length (in millimeters) of filament. Your printer takes those lengths of filament and calculates how much it should rotate your Titan's stepper motor to push out the expected amount filament. This number is used to make that conversion

    • First, we'll start with a ball-park estimate of your E-steps-per-mm, and then we'll fine-tune it.

    • If you're using the standard Titan Slimline motor, start with 837 Steps-per-mm

    • To set your new E-steps-per-mm you need to edit your firmware and EEPROM

    • EEPROM are special settings that can be changed without re-uploading new firmware to your printer. Steps-per-mm settings for each axis are included in the EEPROM. If you update your firmware, your EEPROM will overwrite any changes your firmware might have tried to make.

    • Not all printers have EEPROM settings, so if you can't update them, just update your firmware instead.

  4. If you have an LCD Screen:
    • If you have an LCD Screen:

    • Navigate to Control → Motion → Steps/mm → Esteps/m and enter your new E-steps-per-mm value.

    • Select Store Settings in the Control menu to save your settings.

    • Over USB Connection

    • Use a printer control software to connect to your printer. Send the command M92 E<your number here>to your printer.

    • Then, send M500 to store your settings

    • If you don't have EEPROM, or want your firmware to be consistant with your EEPROM:

    • Update the following line with your new value in the E-steps spot: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {<X-axis> <Y-steps> <Z-steps> <E-steps>}. Upload your firmware as normal.

  5. To get a more exact value for your E-steps-per-mm, measure the exact amount of filament that is pushed out of your extruder. Load filament into your extruder, just until it is gripped by the drive shaft (you can't pull it out without moving the large gear turning) Mark your filament at the top of the idler arm or PTFE tubing  with a pen or permanent marker .
    • To get a more exact value for your E-steps-per-mm, measure the exact amount of filament that is pushed out of your extruder.

    • Load filament into your extruder, just until it is gripped by the drive shaft (you can't pull it out without moving the large gear turning)

    • Mark your filament at the top of the idler arm or PTFE tubing with a pen or permanent marker .

    • Tell your printer to extrude 100mm of filament. Use your printer's LCD screen, or send it: G92 E0, then G1 E100 via your printer control software.

    • You may need to heat your HotEnd before your printer allows you to extrude filament. You can use M302 command to get around that.

    • Mark your filament again at the top of your idler arm or PTFE tubing

    • Eject your filament.

  6. With a ruler or calipers, measure the distance between the two marks on your filament. If the distance wasn't exactly 100mm, use a proportion to calculate a more precise E-steps-per-mm value. Enter that new value into your firmware or EEPROM as you did before.
    • With a ruler or calipers, measure the distance between the two marks on your filament.

    • If the distance wasn't exactly 100mm, use a proportion to calculate a more precise E-steps-per-mm value.

    • Enter that new value into your firmware or EEPROM as you did before.

    • Upload the new firmware to your electronics as you normally would. Typically this means plugging in your printer to your computer, selecting the correct COM port and board type, and pressing the upload button.

    • If you're unsure of how to update your printer's firmware, check with its manufacturer.

Conclusion

You're all done. Enjoy your new Titan!

10 other people completed this guide.

Gabe S.

Member since: 08/08/2017

14,462 Reputation

41 Guides authored

5 Comments

Id suggest editing the screenshot on Step 7 because I got really confused on where the 837 was meant to go, not realizing that it should replace the 500 number

Declan van West - Reply

Very Nice set of instructions, i’m glad i found this procedure for my titan extruder.

Great Job

was able to calibrate and update my settings.

Many Thanks.

Jean-pierre Ethier

Jean-Pierre Ethier - Reply

I went through the directions, it fixed the one major issue I had, I have 3 Titan clone extruders(assuming Titan is a brand, not just a style), none of which would work on my FLsun CUBE. Both of the extruders that came with the CUBE seem to have design flaw in their extruders, do not ever apply a side force to the attachment point of the outlet of the extruder, no matter how light, even accidental(first one broke purely by accident, 2nd one broke during the “showing the wife what not to do”. I also have a FLsun QQ that came with a Titan. The Titans all have wrong direction rotation for CUBE, your first part was easy to fix, the next part was not simple and has been put on back burner for now. I have a suggestion, you need to remember your primary audience has no idea what you are talking about, I know this will get easier, I actually hope it will get easier. Please dumb it down a bit. My CUBE is back again, I can get back to learning at 60.

Doug Scott - Reply

Our guides are written under the assumption that users are already familiar with making modifications to firmware, if you are not currently familiar with the firmware flashing process then we would recommend watching some youtube videos on this process, Thomas Sanladerer is a good example of a channel to follow for this kind of information.

Dan Rock -

調べてたどり着いたのは次の結論です。

合っていますでしょうか?

検索#define INVERT_E0_DIR

もとはfalseであったのでtrueに変更する。

#define INVERT_E0_DIR false //ダイレクトドライブ押出機v9をtrueに設定、ギア付き押出機をfalseに設定

-> #define INVERT_E0_DIR true //ダイレクトドライブ押出機v9をtrueに設定、ギア付き押出機をtrueに設定

検索#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT

もとは200であったので600にする。

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160、160、160、200}

-> #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160、160、160、600}

コンパイル完了

最大253952バイトのフラッシュメモリのうち、スケッチが118662バイト(46%)を使っています。

最大8192バイトのRAMのうち、グローバル変数が4711バイト(57%)を使っていて、ローカル変数で3481バイト使うことができます。

nekoneko - Reply

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