Introduction

Below is an assembly guide for Titan Aqua. Whilst it looks similar to Titan Aero, the construction and mounting method is significantly different.

Disclaimer: If assembled correctly, Titan Aqua is very unlikely to leak, please follow these assembly instructions closely and test all water connections before running in anger. We will not take responsibility for leaking parts that have been assembled incorrectly.

Tools

No tools required.

Parts

No parts required.

  1. Gather the nozzle, heater block and heat break:
    • Gather the nozzle, heater block and heat break:

      • Nozzle

      • Heater Block

      • Heat Break

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  2. Before starting work on your heater block, make sure that you'll going to screw your nozzle into the correct side.
    • Before starting work on your heater block, make sure that you'll going to screw your nozzle into the correct side.

    • You should be looking at the side of the heater block with three holes in it

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    • Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block. Don't worry about tightness yet.

    • Then, unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn. This will leave a little space to tighten after screwing in the heat break.

    these instructions - steps 3-5 - don’t really work on an Aero since they lock the heater block to the heatbreak, and therefore also to the heatsink in a fixed and arbitrary rotation . If your final heater block orientation matters to you then you need to screw the heatbreak into the heatsink first. I wrote a more detailed explanation but it’s too long to post here.

    parenthetical - Reply

    • Screw in the heat break until it touches the nozzle.

    • Tighten the nozzle against the heat break. No need to over tighten, we'll be hot-tightening later.

    I don’t see a hot-tightening step below. How is the hot-tighten supposed to work?

    Neilen Maris - Reply

    • Double check that your nozzle is still almost flush with your heater block.

    • If there is significant space between the nozzle top and the heater block you should re-adjust your nozzle and heat break to eliminate that space.

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    • Gather the parts you'll need to install the thermistor:

      • Thermistor Cartridge

      • The Smaller, 1.5mm Hex Wrench

      • M3 Grub Screw

      • Heater Block

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    • Slide in the thermistor cartridge.

    • You can slide the cartridge in either direction so that the wires extend from one side or the other of your heater block. Think about how you'll be organising your wiring to decide which makes sense for your printer.

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    • Screw in grub screw until it just touches the thermistor.

    • Tighten M3 grub screw by an 1/8 of a turn.

    • Do not over tighten the screw. The thermistor cartridge is soft, and you might deform it if you over-tighten the screw.

    I’ve noticed that while the hot-end is hot (215 C), the thermistor can freely slides out, indicating that the contact is not very tight (I have not touche the M3 screw since receiving the extruder as part of my Prusa i3 MK2S).

    Given the warning above I assume I should not try to tighten the thermistor while the hotend is hot since it will deform it when it cools down?

    (Indeed I don’t have any problems with the current setupas as PLA melts at 205C/215C as reported by the thermistor, indicating it’s accurate even though it is not tight when hot).

    Udi Finkelstein - Reply

    • Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you both purchased and received the correct voltage cartridge. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.

    • Your heater cartridge will be either 30w or 40w, with blue and red wires receptively.

    • If you have a 12v heater cartridge, your resistance reading will be (about) 3.5 or 4.8 Ω for 40w and 30w respectively.

    • If you have a 24v heater cartridge, your resistance reading will be (about) 14.4 or 19.2 Ω for 40w and 30w respectively.

    Either the text or the picture need to be corrected.

    The example picture says that a resistance 5.2 ohms is ok for a 24v heater cartridge at 30 watts (due to the blue insulated wires shown).

    However the text contradicts this for 24v heater cartridge saying that the resistance of a 24v 40 watt heater cart should be about 14.4 ohms or about 19.2 ohms for a 24v 30 watt cart.

    The 4.8 ohm resistance of a 12 volt 30 watt heater cart in the text is a closer match to the 5.2 ohms in the picture!

    Jonathan - Reply

    • Gather heater block, heater cartridge, 2mm hex key and M3x10 screw with washer:

      • Heater Block

      • Heater cartridge

      • 2.5mm, Hex Wrench

      • One of the longer M3x10 Screws and M3 Washer

    this step says to use the 2.5mm hex wrench, step 12 says use the 2.0mm hex wrench. the smaller 2.0mm hex wrench is the correct one

    Garth - Reply

    Thanks a lot! I’ve fixed the guide.

    Gabe S. -

    confirmed - it should read 2mm

    parenthetical - Reply

    Thanks a lot! I’ve fixed the guide. Good catch!

    Gabe S. -

    You should specify to use the flat washer, not the shake-proof washer, as that’s needed in a later step. In my kit, the shake-proof washer was packed in the same bag as the M3x10 screws, but the flat washer was in a separate bag.

    bruceb - Reply

    • Slide in the heater cartridge. Typically you'd want the wires to come out the same side as your thermistor wires.

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    • Tighten the M3 x 10 socket dome screw (with the M3 washer on it) with 2 mm hey key until the clamp deforms slightly (as shown in the second picture).

    • Gently tug the heater and thermistor wires to check they won't slide out

    In step 10 you mention “the Larger, 2.5mm, Hex Wrench” so maybe this needs to be updated from 2mm to 2.5mm

    Simon hoeck - Reply

    • Insert bearings into the front and back of the Titan Aqua Body.

    • These should be snug, but slot into place without the need for tools.

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    • Pass the hobbed shaft through the bearings.

    • Click the circlip into the groove in the shaft.

    Had a problem slipping in the shaft. there was a slight rough edge in the groove. I use a fine key file to get a tiny chamfer.

    It really would help on the original part! consider a drawing change (12/2017)

    David Keil - Reply

    I’ll also mention that the fit over the bearing was super snug, I measured twice to make sure the id of the bearing fit the od of the shaft. I was pleased to see how tight the tolerances are. I had to remove a small bit of flashing off of the plate though with a needle file.

    RIcky Garner - Reply

    • Place the pinion gear onto the motor shaft, with the grub screw closest to the motor.

    • Loosely secure with M3 grub screw.

    • Place the body on to the motor and observe if the gears are flush or not.

    • New line.

    • Adjust until flush.

    • Once happy secure grubscrew firmly.

    please check the M3 grub screw! There is a long and a short one. Using the long one will cause scrubbing within the hole for the pinion gear. USE THE SHORT ONE!

    David Keil - Reply

    picture shows that the pinion gear has to be even with the drive shaft. Position it a little lower, because the rubber sealing will give some 0,Xmm extra when tightening! 0,3-0,5mm would be suitable from my perspective.

    David Keil - Reply

    Make sure when positioning the motor that there is a small amount of backlash between the gear teeth. Too tight and the extruder will jam easily. Too loose and the resolution will suffer. Double check this after fitting the filament guide.

    Also, I found and marked my pinion position on the shaft, removed the motor and flipped the pinion so the set screw is not contacting the driven gear. This allows for slightly more tooth contact.

    Chris Vahi - Reply

    • Screw the 2 elbow connectors in the sealing plate.

    • Ensure the elbows are being screwed in to the side of the plate with a recess.

    • Tighten firmly

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    • Place the gasket into the recess in the back of the body.

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    • Place the seal on top of the gasket.

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    • Carefully insert the motor into the stacked cold side parts.

    • Optional: Sparingly apply thermal compound to the face of the motor, if you wish to cool the motor.

    • Secure in bottom right with M3x8 socket head cap screw.

    • Tighten firmly.

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    • Place Idler Lever on to motor shaft.

    check lever for chips! there was every time no perfect lever with a chip-free through hole for the filament.

    I always had to drill free and also made it wider with a 3,5mm hole! caused me a lot trouble to find this bad behaviour!

    David Keil - Reply

    • Optional: sparingly apply thermal compound to the back of the filament guide.

    • Place Filament Guide on top of assembly.

    • Secure with the following:

      • 2 x M3 x 25 socket head cap screw

      • 1 x M3 x 16 socket head cap screw

    • Tighten firmly.

    Counterbores for the screws ISO 4762 are not suitable. They are not deep enough for the heads.

    Does not matter, but, really boys, that are the basics!

    David Keil - Reply

    • Place spring on to the end of the Thumbwheel.

    • Screw into the side of the Filament Guide and snug up against the Idler

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    • The coldside of the extruder is now assembled and should be checked for leaks before progressing.

    • Connect the 4mm tubing from the water cooled back end (link here to that assembly guide)

    • Connect the 4mm tubing from the water cooled back end. See Water-Cooling Kit

    • Place in a tray if possible.

    • Turn on the pump and check for leaks.

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    • Take your assembled Hotside and insert the PTFE in the heatbreak.

    • Trim such that 2.8mm of PTFE protrudes from the Heat Break.

    • For best results, cut the PTFE with a sharp scalpel.

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    • Optional: Sparingly apply thermal compound to the Heat Break for improved heat transfer.

    • Screw the hotside into the coldside.

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    • Now the extruder is fully assembled and leak checked it can be mounted to the printer.

    • Attach the extruder to your printer carriage using the 4 M4 holes, in each corner of the Body.

    • The hole spacing is 53x53mm.

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    • If you're printing 1.75mm filament, you can guide it a little better by putting a length of PTFE tubing in the top of the idler lever

    • Press the tubing into the lever.

    • It may be a very tight fit. You can file down the tube if it helps.

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    • Hot-tightening is the last mechanical step before your Aqua is ready to go! Hot-tightening is essential to sealing the nozzle and heatbreak together to ensure that molten plastic cannot leak out of the hotend in use.

    • Using your printer's control software (or LCD screen), set the hotend temperature to 285°C. Allow the hotend to reach 285°C and wait one minute to allow all components to equalise in temperature.

    • Gently tighten the nozzle whilst holding the heater block still with a spanner and using a smaller 7mm spanner to tighten the nozzle. This will tighten the nozzle against the Heatsink and ensure that your hotend does not leak.

    • You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle—this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner.

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    • You're all set with assembly! All you have left is configuring your firmware to deal with your new extruder. Follow one of the links below to update your firmware:

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Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

Daniel Halsall

Member since: 08/07/2017

980 Reputation

7 Guides authored

One Comment

Thank you for the instructions,

I have the following questions \ comments:

Step 15) I’ve got a feeling that the hob\gear shaft is machined down to the ID of the bearing and then the circlip grove is cut after,

because there is a considerable bur and I had to (tap-ity tap tap) the shaft through both bearings with a fairly large attitude adjuster.

I now fear for the life of those two little bearings and probably need a 2 ton press to extract the shaft from the assembly later.

Step 17) You might want to mention that the second elbow must be swivelled in order to install…I wondered about that for a minute or two.

Step 25) All metal extruder…blush…

Step 26) How tight or far in do we screw the hotend into the coldend ?

The screwing goes from ‘no’ resistance to ‘increasing’ resistance as the PTFE appears to come into contact with the coldend.

But do we stop at a convenient orientation of the hotend, or do we screw it to refusal ?

Les Marentette - Reply

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