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Introduction

There are many incarnations of the Prusa i3, the one used in this example is but one of them, accordingly there may additional or redundant steps in this guide. Please familiarise yourself with the steps in the guide and establish if it is relevant and possible on your printer before choosing to continue.

The plethora of Prusa i3's available makes assuring compatibility hard.

This guide assumes the following:

  • 8mm Rods using LM8UU Bearings (or similar).
  • 45mm Rod Spacing, ~15mm Belt Spacing.
  • One bearing on the top rod, two on the bottom, or the other way around.
  1. Gather the nozzle, heater block and heat break: Nozzle
    • Gather the nozzle, heater block and heat break:

    • Nozzle

    • Heater Block

    • Heat Break

  2. Before starting work on your heater block, make sure that you'll going to screw your nozzle into the correct side.
    • Before starting work on your heater block, make sure that you'll going to screw your nozzle into the correct side.

    • You should be looking at the side of the heater block with three holes in it

  3. Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block. Don't worry about tightness yet. Then, unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn. This will leave a little space to tighten after screwing in the heat break. Then, unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn. This will leave a little space to tighten after screwing in the heat break.
    • Screw in the nozzle all the way into the heater block. Don't worry about tightness yet.

    • Then, unscrew the nozzle by a 1/4 of a turn. This will leave a little space to tighten after screwing in the heat break.

    these instructions - steps 3-5 - don’t really work on an Aero since they lock the heater block to the heatbreak, and therefore also to the heatsink in a fixed and arbitrary rotation . If your final heater block orientation matters to you then you need to screw the heatbreak into the heatsink first. I wrote a more detailed explanation but it’s too long to post here.

    parenthetical - Reply

    The final orientation of the Heater block can be adjusted during the Hot tightening stage by orientating the heater block with a pair of pliers and holding it there whilst you tighten the nozzle.

    Dan Rock -

  4. Screw in the heat break until it touches the nozzle. Tighten the nozzle against the heat break. No need to over tighten, we'll be hot-tightening later.
    • Screw in the heat break until it touches the nozzle.

    • Tighten the nozzle against the heat break. No need to over tighten, we'll be hot-tightening later.

    I don’t see a hot-tightening step below. How is the hot-tighten supposed to work?

    Neilen Maris - Reply

    The Hot tightening is at step 39.

    Dan Rock -

  5. Double check that your nozzle is still almost flush with your heater block. If there is significant space between the nozzle top and the heater block you should re-adjust your nozzle and heat break to eliminate that space.
    • Double check that your nozzle is still almost flush with your heater block.

    • If there is significant space between the nozzle top and the heater block you should re-adjust your nozzle and heat break to eliminate that space.

  6. Gather the parts you'll need to install the thermistor:
    • Gather the parts you'll need to install the thermistor:

    • Thermistor Cartridge

    • The Smaller, 1.5mm Hex Wrench

    • M3 Grub Screw

    • Heater Block

  7. Slide in the thermistor cartridge. You can slide the cartridge in either direction so that the wires extend from one side or the other of your heater block. Think about how you'll be organising your wiring to decide which makes sense for your printer.
    • Slide in the thermistor cartridge.

    • You can slide the cartridge in either direction so that the wires extend from one side or the other of your heater block. Think about how you'll be organising your wiring to decide which makes sense for your printer.

  8. Screw in grub screw until it just touches the thermistor. Tighten M3 grub screw by an 1/8 of a turn.
    • Screw in grub screw until it just touches the thermistor.

    • Tighten M3 grub screw by an 1/8 of a turn.

    • Do not over tighten the screw. The thermistor cartridge is soft, and you might deform it if you over-tighten the screw.

    I’ve noticed that while the hot-end is hot (215 C), the thermistor can freely slides out, indicating that the contact is not very tight (I have not touche the M3 screw since receiving the extruder as part of my Prusa i3 MK2S).

    Given the warning above I assume I should not try to tighten the thermistor while the hotend is hot since it will deform it when it cools down?

    (Indeed I don’t have any problems with the current setupas as PLA melts at 205C/215C as reported by the thermistor, indicating it’s accurate even though it is not tight when hot).

    Udi Finkelstein - Reply

    The warning above is to prevent deformation of the cartridge which can lead to incorrect temperature readings. The thermistor cartridge should not be loose at any temperature, this can be very dangerous and could lead to thermal runaway. Make sure the thermistor is not able to slip out the heater block you will be able to do this at room temperature. You will be able to tell if you have tightened the grub screw enough when you do a gentle tug test.

    Dan Rock -

  9. Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you both purchased and received the correct voltage cartridge. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.
    • Before you install your heater cartridge, you should double check that you both purchased and received the correct voltage cartridge. This process is less annoying than putting out a house fire.

    • Your heater cartridge will be either 30w or 40w, with blue and red wires receptively.

    • If you have a 12v heater cartridge, your resistance reading will be (about) 3.5 or 4.8 Ω for 40w and 30w respectively.

    • If you have a 24v heater cartridge, your resistance reading will be (about) 14.4 or 19.2 Ω for 40w and 30w respectively.

    Either the text or the picture need to be corrected.

    The example picture says that a resistance 5.2 ohms is ok for a 24v heater cartridge at 30 watts (due to the blue insulated wires shown).

    However the text contradicts this for 24v heater cartridge saying that the resistance of a 24v 40 watt heater cart should be about 14.4 ohms or about 19.2 ohms for a 24v 30 watt cart.

    The 4.8 ohm resistance of a 12 volt 30 watt heater cart in the text is a closer match to the 5.2 ohms in the picture!

    Jonathan - Reply

  10. Gather heater block, heater cartridge, 2mm hex key and M3x10 screw with washer:
    • Gather heater block, heater cartridge, 2mm hex key and M3x10 screw with washer:

    • Heater Block

    • Heater cartridge

    • 2.5mm, Hex Wrench

    • One of the longer M3x10.

    this step says to use the 2.5mm hex wrench, step 12 says use the 2.0mm hex wrench. the smaller 2.0mm hex wrench is the correct one

    Garth - Reply

    Thanks a lot! I’ve fixed the guide.

    Gabe S. -

    confirmed - it should read 2mm

    parenthetical - Reply

    Thanks a lot! I’ve fixed the guide. Good catch!

    Gabe S. -

    The hex wrench size was fixed in the first paragraph, but not in the detailed list. It still says 2.5 mm.

    Thomas Walter - Reply

  11. Slide in the heater cartridge. Typically you'd want the wires to come out the same side as your thermistor wires.
    • Slide in the heater cartridge. Typically you'd want the wires to come out the same side as your thermistor wires.

  12. Tighten the M3 x 10 socket dome screw with 2.5 mm hey key until the clamp deforms slightly (as shown in the second picture). Gently tug the heater and thermistor wires to check they won't slide out
    • Tighten the M3 x 10 socket dome screw with 2.5 mm hey key until the clamp deforms slightly (as shown in the second picture).

    • Gently tug the heater and thermistor wires to check they won't slide out

    In step 10 you mention “the Larger, 2.5mm, Hex Wrench” so maybe this needs to be updated from 2mm to 2.5mm

    Simon hoeck - Reply

    Thanks! I’ve updated this (only 2 years later!)

    Gabe S. -

    Which is it? Step 10 mentions 2.5mm and 2mm. :-p

    Thomas Walter - Reply

    Hi Thomas,

    It is indeed 2.5mm, I will make sure to update any mentions of 2mm.

    Dan Rock -

  13. Gather thermal compound paste, PTFE tube, heat sink and block assembly from previous step:
    • Gather thermal compound paste, PTFE tube, heat sink and block assembly from previous step:

    • Block assembly

    • PTFE tube

    • thermal compound paste

    • heat sink

  14. Apply thermal paste to the threads of the heat break. You won't need the whole sachet be careful not to apply too much paste to the lower parts of the thread closest to the heater block Insert PTFE into the heat break, make sure it's well seated
    • Apply thermal paste to the threads of the heat break. You won't need the whole sachet

    • be careful not to apply too much paste to the lower parts of the thread closest to the heater block

    • Insert PTFE into the heat break, make sure it's well seated

    • Screw on the heat sink and tighten by hand. Do not apply excessive torque.

  15. Gather the fan, blue fan duct and tapping screws: Fan Fan duct
    • Gather the fan, blue fan duct and tapping screws:

    • Fan

    • Fan duct

    • Tapping screws

    • Use a cross head screwdriver to screw the fan to its duct.

    • The fan label needs to be facing into the duct

  16. Gather the V6 assembly, fan + duct and the 2 extension cables: V6 assembly fan + duct
    • Gather the V6 assembly, fan + duct and the 2 extension cables:

    • V6 assembly

    • fan + duct

    • extension wires

    • Clip the fan duct on to the heat sink so that is covers the bottom fin of the sink

    • Clip the extension cables onto the thermistor and fan Molex connectors

    • Trim the over shoot PTFE to 23mm

  17. Partly screw the M3 grub screw into the pinion gear Slide the pinion gear onto the motor shaft and tighten  slightly
    • Partly screw the M3 grub screw into the pinion gear

    • Slide the pinion gear onto the motor shaft and tighten slightly

    • Don't over tighten, you'll want enough torque to keep it from moving on it's own, but can still slide with a little force

  18. Gather Motor, Titan body,  mounting bracket, button screw and 2mm hex key:
    • Gather Motor, Titan body, mounting bracket, button screw and 2mm hex key:

    • Motor and pinion gear

    • Mounting bracket

    • Titan body

    • Button screw

    • 2mm hex key

  19. Place the mounting bracket over the motor as shown in first image Place Titan body over the top and secure with the screw, add little tension to the screw.  You'll want to be able to freely rotate the body.
    • Place the mounting bracket over the motor as shown in first image

    • Place Titan body over the top and secure with the screw, add little tension to the screw. You'll want to be able to freely rotate the body.

    • Gather Titan hobb

    • Attach hobb and make sure it's fully seated. Roate body so that the black gear is meshed with the pinion gear

    • Nudge the pinion gear down until it's flush with the black gear

    • Now tighten the grub screw in the pinion gear to lock it in place. You may have to remove some components in order to do this

    • Reconstruct with the gears flush and tighten the button screw in the Titan body

Finish Line

John Bamford

Member since: 08/25/2017

481 Reputation

2 Guides authored

6 Comments

Where is the PINDA probe mounted?

Stephan DuVal - Reply

Good question! This was for the earlier Prusa i3s, not the Prusa i3 Mk2, so it doesn’t have support for a PINDA probe. A quick google search brought me to this mount which looks like it works with the probe. There are probably others too, so go find one you like!

Gabe S. -

Any instructions on how to upgrade the firmware for the titan extruder?

Derek - Reply

Why does this guide feel unfinished?

Derek - Reply

Does the mounting bracket also work for an Ender 3 pro?

Derek W - Reply

Check the rod spacing on your current printer, if it matches the criteria on the website description then yes, otherwise it would not be compatible.

Dan Rock -

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