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LulzBot Taz6 Hemera Upgrade

Written By: Joe Spanier (and one other contributor)
  • Comments: 6
  • Favorites: 1
  • Completions: 1

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

34

Time Required

01:00:00

Sections

2

Flags

0

Introduction

Purchase your Hemera here: https://e3d-online.com/e3d-hemera-175-ki...

For the printed parts please see:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:400889...

Please note that this guide is assuming the use of a fully assembled and hot tightened Hemera unit if you have not yet fully assembled and hot tightened your unit please see: Hemera Assembly Guides

Mounting a Hemera to a Lulzbot Taz 6 is easy, and we provide most of the tools you'll need. Please note, though, that you should be very careful of the following safety cautions:

  • Be aware of your electronics. Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.
  • Be aware when you heat up your new hotend not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.
  • The standard Hemera is capable of printing up to 285°C, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the Thermistor cartridge with a PT100, the Aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.
  • Firmware modification is not optional it is a mandatory step,
  • Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match the power supply of your printer. All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge. Taking an ohm reading is the most reliable method of testing what voltage/ wattage you have received.
  • Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire. If you are unsure double check the rating on your power supply.
  • Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.

  1. Gather:

    • Gather:

    • x1 Hemera idler main body

    • x1 Hemera slid block (black)

    • x1 Hemera spring block (white)

    • x1 Hemera Thumbwheel

    • x1 M3 Square nut

    Edit

  2. Insert the square nut into the slide block. Insert the square nut into the slide block.

    • Insert the square nut into the slide block.

    Edit

  3. Place the sliding block with the square nut into the idler lever. Check orientation of the inserted slide block before proceeding.

    • Place the sliding block with the square nut into the idler lever.

    • Check orientation of the inserted slide block before proceeding.

    • It is easier to do this part with the Idler held "vertically" so that the square nut doesn't fall out in the act.

    Edit

  4. Place the spring block into the idler arm. Check orientation before proceeding.

    • Place the spring block into the idler arm.

    • Check orientation before proceeding.

    • The spring block will fit nicely against the slide block when done right.

    Edit

  5. Gather the thumbscrew

    • Gather the thumbscrew

    • Gather idler assembly

    Edit

  6. Insert the thumbscrew into the idler assembly.

    • Insert the thumbscrew into the idler assembly.

    • Only turn it once or twice when the threads catch. Having low tension will maker later assembly easier.

    Edit

  7. Gather:

    • Gather:

    • Idler hobb assembly

    • Idler shaft

    Edit

  8. Place the idler shaft into the idler hobb assembly.

    • Place the idler shaft into the idler hobb assembly.

    • This will be a loose fit so be careful when you pick it up again.

    Edit

  9. Place the idler hobb assembly on the idler arm. Check orientation before proceeding. Make sure to fully press the idler hobb assembly into the idler arm before proceeding.

    • Place the idler hobb assembly on the idler arm.

    • Check orientation before proceeding.

    • Make sure to fully press the idler hobb assembly into the idler arm before proceeding.

    • It should click into place.

    Edit

  10. Place the dowel into the heatsink Place the dowel into the heatsink

    • Place the dowel into the heatsink

    Edit

  11. Place the spring on the spring block. Place the Idler arm with spring onto the idler pin.

    • Place the spring on the spring block.

    • Place the Idler arm with spring onto the idler pin.

    • Holding the spring in place will aid the insertion into the groove on the inside of the heatsink.

    Edit

  12. Place the drive hobb assembly into the bearing pocket in the heatsink. The drive hobb assembly should line up with the slot in the heatsink. If the two bearings are not on the hobb shafts at this point place them on.

    • Place the drive hobb assembly into the bearing pocket in the heatsink.

    • The drive hobb assembly should line up with the slot in the heatsink.

    • If the two bearings are not on the hobb shafts at this point place them on.

    Edit

  14. Place x4 M3 square nuts into the T slots on motor face. Place x4 M3 square nuts into the T slots on motor face.

    • Place x4 M3 square nuts into the T slots on motor face.

    Edit

  15. Gather:

    • Gather:

    • Heatsink assembly

    • Motor assembly

    Edit

  16. Place the heatsink onto the motor face. The aim is to line up the bearing on the drive hobb assembly with the bearing pocket on the motor face. Keep the motor facing upwards to prevent the square nuts falling out.

    • Place the heatsink onto the motor face.

    • The aim is to line up the bearing on the drive hobb assembly with the bearing pocket on the motor face.

    • Keep the motor facing upwards to prevent the square nuts falling out.

    Edit

  17. Place the M3 screws into the two holes on the heatsink. Fasten the M3 screws with a 2.5mm Allen key

    • Place the M3 screws into the two holes on the heatsink.

    • Fasten the M3 screws with a 2.5mm Allen key

    Edit

  18. To adjust the idler tension, rotate the thumbscrew at the top. Rotating clockwise (with the heat sink engraving facing you) increases filament tension. Rotating anticlockwise decreases filament tension.

    • To adjust the idler tension, rotate the thumbscrew at the top.

    • Rotating clockwise (with the heat sink engraving facing you) increases filament tension.

    • Rotating anticlockwise decreases filament tension.

    Edit

  19. Recommended starting idler lever tension.

    • Recommended starting idler lever tension.

    • The white spring block should be flush with the front face of the idler lever.

    • Further adjustment may be required dependant on material being used, for example flexible filaments may require additional tension.

    Edit

  20. Edit

  21. Raise Gantry to the middle of the machine to give yourself room to work.

    • Raise Gantry to the middle of the machine to give yourself room to work.

    • Unload the filament and allow your nozzle to cool

    • Once the nozzle is cool, power down and unplug your machine to prevent any damage to the machine.

    Edit

    • M3 Heatsets

    • Printed LulzBot to Hermes Adapter

    • Printed Fan Duct

    • Soldering Iron

    Edit

  23. Insert single heatset into center hole in the back of the LulzBot Hermes Adapter Insert 2 heatsets into holes in the top of LulzBot Hermes Adapter Insert 2 heatsets into the two large non-chamfered holes in the front fan mount

    • Insert single heatset into center hole in the back of the LulzBot Hermes Adapter

    • Insert 2 heatsets into holes in the top of LulzBot Hermes Adapter

    • Insert 2 heatsets into the two large non-chamfered holes in the front fan mount

    Edit

  24. Gather your Hermes Mount Insert 2 T-nuts into the back two slots. If you are looking at the back of the motor insert them into the slots on the right

    • Gather your Hermes Mount

    • Insert 2 T-nuts into the back two slots. If you are looking at the back of the motor insert them into the slots on the right

    • Pro-tip - cover the t-slots with a piece of tape after the nuts are inserted so they can't fall out during assembly

    • Add 4 M3x12mm socket head cap screws in the four holes in the back of the Hermes mount

    • Align Hermes to the bolts and screw them in using a 2.5mm allen key.

    • Be aware it is possible to crack the t slots if you use screws that are too long and bottoms out. Our recommendation is to use screws that protrude 3mm +- 0.25mm from the mounting surface to go into the T-Slots. Over tightening also risks snapping the T slot.

    Edit

  25. Gather Taz6 Universal Mount Align Hermes mount to the Taz 6 Universal Mount and insert 1 M3x10mm Flat head cap screw in the center hole in the back of the Universal Mount into the center M3 Heat set in the Hermes Mount Add 2 M3x12 socket head cap screws with M3 Washers to the two holes in the top of the Hermes Mount to fully mount it to the Universal Taz 6 mount

    • Gather Taz6 Universal Mount

    • Align Hermes mount to the Taz 6 Universal Mount and insert 1 M3x10mm Flat head cap screw in the center hole in the back of the Universal Mount into the center M3 Heat set in the Hermes Mount

    • Add 2 M3x12 socket head cap screws with M3 Washers to the two holes in the top of the Hermes Mount to fully mount it to the Universal Taz 6 mount

    Edit

    • 4 M3x10mm Flat head cap screws

    • 2 M3x20 Socket Head Cap Screws

    • 2- M3 washers

    • Printed Fan Duct

    • 50mm Fan (You will need to purchase this separately)

    • 2 - M3 T-nuts

    Edit

  27. Add 2 t-nuts to the t-nut slots on the front of the motor. Add tape to hold them while working Carefully fit fan duct into place. Make sure it doesn't crush heater cartridge wires and everything is routed nicely Be aware it is possible to crack the t slots if you use screws that are too long and bottoms out. Our recommendation is to use screws that protrude 3mm +- 0.25mm from the mounting surface to go into the T-Slots. Over tightening also risks snapping the T slot.

    • Add 2 t-nuts to the t-nut slots on the front of the motor. Add tape to hold them while working

    • Carefully fit fan duct into place. Make sure it doesn't crush heater cartridge wires and everything is routed nicely

    • Be aware it is possible to crack the t slots if you use screws that are too long and bottoms out. Our recommendation is to use screws that protrude 3mm +- 0.25mm from the mounting surface to go into the T-Slots. Over tightening also risks snapping the T slot.

    Edit

  28. Add 4 M3x10 flat head cap screws into countersunk holes Fit fan into place. The duct is fairly tight, I found it was easiest to tilt the fan up and slip it in as I fit it to the mounting holes

    • Add 4 M3x10 flat head cap screws into countersunk holes

    • Fit fan into place. The duct is fairly tight, I found it was easiest to tilt the fan up and slip it in as I fit it to the mounting holes

    • Add two M3x20 socket head cap screws to mount the fan in place.

    Edit

  29. Add sense wire - This mounts to the bare metal on the stepper motor between the cooling duct and the motor. I used the extra wire from my thermistor harness to make this wire. Strip off 4mm of insulation and crimp the ring terminal on a piece of 300mm wire Put the ring terminal in between the fan duct and the stepper at the lower right t-nut on the front. We will sandwich it here using this bolt

    • Add sense wire - This mounts to the bare metal on the stepper motor between the cooling duct and the motor. I used the extra wire from my thermistor harness to make this wire.

    • Strip off 4mm of insulation and crimp the ring terminal on a piece of 300mm wire

    • Put the ring terminal in between the fan duct and the stepper at the lower right t-nut on the front. We will sandwich it here using this bolt

    • Slip the heater, thermistor, sense pin, 24v cooling fan and 5v heatsink fan wires through the channel in the between the Hermes mounting points

    • Once through add a zip tie near the thermistor molex connector to the full bundle to help retain the wires and keep strain off the thermistor. Feed the wires the rest of the way into the channel.

    Edit

  30. Trim wires 50-75mm longer than the top of the mount. This gives freedom to manage the wire connector for the TAZ 6. Trim wires 50-75mm longer than the top of the mount. This gives freedom to manage the wire connector for the TAZ 6.

    • Trim wires 50-75mm longer than the top of the mount. This gives freedom to manage the wire connector for the TAZ 6.

    Edit

  31. Strip about 3-4mm of insulation off each wire to prep for adding pins Crimp the pins onto the wires using the appropriate crimpers and then add them to the 16 position socket following the wiring diagram Pin 1 is the one shown here with the arrow at the top right. The diagram is numbered from the back so the pins will be facing away from you if you are looking at the numbers in the top left of the diagram.

    • Strip about 3-4mm of insulation off each wire to prep for adding pins

    • Crimp the pins onto the wires using the appropriate crimpers and then add them to the 16 position socket following the wiring diagram

    • Pin 1 is the one shown here with the arrow at the top right. The diagram is numbered from the back so the pins will be facing away from you if you are looking at the numbers in the top left of the diagram.

    • We are jumping out the Xmax limit switch. This switch is not needed for normal operation and was not added in the Universal Adapter mount by Lulzbot.

    Edit

  32. Once all the wiring is complete we can move to the machine

    • Once all the wiring is complete we can move to the machine

    Edit

  33. Mount to the machine with the M3 bolt with from your old tool head

    • Mount to the machine with the M3 bolt with from your old tool head

    • Connect the Molex connector to the machine paying attention to match the pin orientation from the old tool head.

    • If you forget, match the empty pin on the machine and tool head Molex connectors.

    Edit

  34. Flash new Firmware through Lulzbot Cura. Choose the Taz 6 Aero 2|SE firmware Make sure you set your nozzle size correctly in machine settings.

    • Flash new Firmware through Lulzbot Cura.

    • Choose the Taz 6 Aero 2|SE firmware

    • Make sure you set your nozzle size correctly in machine settings.

    • You will need to set your Esteps properly around 409.

    Edit

  35. Get printing!!

    • Get printing!!

    Edit
Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

Author

with 1 other contributor

Joe Spanier

Member since: 11/11/2019

508 Reputation

2 Guides authored

6 Comments

Add a comment

Thanks for the excellent guide! One question: are there links to the printed part (mounts) STLs somewhere? Apologies if I just missed them.

Josh Carter - Reply

Looks like they’ve added a link to Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:400889...

Daniel Nichols -

Thanks again, great instructions and my Hemera is alive and printing! I wanted to mention:

1) IMPORTANT: I interpreted your wiring diagram to mean that the X-max switch should have jumper, i.e. bridge pins 11-12. This needs to be left open.

2) Don’t tighten the mounting screws for the blower too much. My blower wouldn’t turn until I loosened these to just snug.

3) FWIW, the Hemera I got from Filastruder had the extruder, gears, and motor fully assembled. However I needed to mount the heatbrake, nozzle, heater, and so-forth. I’d consider removing steps 1-15 and just have links to the Hemera assembly documentation.

I appreciate the effort put into writing this guide—it was a great help!

Josh Carter - Reply

Does anyone have a link to the Taz 6 universal mount? It seems to be missing.

Guy W Barton - Reply

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