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Introduction

This guide is for the assembly of the high-temperature heater beds. it is important to mention that these beds run off mains voltage (240vac/ 110vac) and can be dangerous if not wired correctly.

Do not mount the bed on printed plastic parts, you should mount it on a metal frame to avoid melting. These beds are capable of reaching up to 250°C

This guide is for the 300 x 300 mm, 300 x 200 mm and 200 x 200 mm heated beds. The guide shows a 300 x 300 mm bed but the same applies to all sizes.

Please note that the dimensions 300 x 300mm refers to the print area ie the silk screen printed area. the full dimentions can be found on the drawings.

  1. Make sure you have:
    • Make sure you have:

    • x1 Heated Bed

    • x1 Borosilicate Glass 314 x 314 mm

    • x4 Plastic Spacers (PPS)

    • x4 m3 button head 7.5mm screws

    • x8 washers

    • Make sure the glass used is Borosilicate, other glass may crack/break.

  2. Before doing anything make sure the printers power supply is not plugged into the wall. It is better to completely remove the plug, rather than just turning it off. It is better to completely remove the plug, rather than just turning it off.
    • Before doing anything make sure the printers power supply is not plugged into the wall.

    • It is better to completely remove the plug, rather than just turning it off.

  3. You will find it easier to elevate the heated bed for this step. For this example  a piece of scrap foam has been used. Place a washer on one of the 4 m3 screws. Place the screw and washer into the slot on the bed.
    • You will find it easier to elevate the heated bed for this step. For this example a piece of scrap foam has been used.

    • Place a washer on one of the 4 m3 screws.

    • Place the screw and washer into the slot on the bed.

    • Do this on all 4 of the corners.

  4. Place the second washer on the screw on the underside of the bed. Screw on the plastic spacer to fasten the parts together. Make sure the screw head is positioned all the way to the end of the slot closest to the outside edge.
    • Place the second washer on the screw on the underside of the bed.

    • Screw on the plastic spacer to fasten the parts together.

    • Make sure the screw head is positioned all the way to the end of the slot closest to the outside edge.

    • Do this for all 4 corners.

    • Do not completely tighten the screw in the slot, make sure the screw is able to slide in the slot when the bed heats up and expands.

    • You can now mount the bed onto your printer.

    • Make sure that you do not mount the bed on any plastic parts as these can melt/ catch fire.

    • Make sure you insulate any melt-able/ burnable components. either above or below the bed.

  5. Prepare a Ground/Earth wire with a ring crimp. Gather a washer. And a M3 3.5mm screw.
    • Prepare a Ground/Earth wire with a ring crimp.

    • Gather a washer.

    • And a M3 3.5mm screw.

    • Make sure to use a wire of at least 14AWG

  6. Fasten the ground wire into the ground hole. The screw should not stick out of the top of the bed otherwise it will foul the glass. The screw should not stick out of the top of the bed otherwise it will foul the glass.
    • Fasten the ground wire into the ground hole.

    • The screw should not stick out of the top of the bed otherwise it will foul the glass.

  7. At this point there should be 5 wires coming out of the bed. The Earth/Ground wire (ideally using yellow and green Earth/Ground wire)
    • At this point there should be 5 wires coming out of the bed.

    • The Earth/Ground wire (ideally using yellow and green Earth/Ground wire)

    • Two red wires (these are the heater wires)

    • Two blue wires (these are the thermistor wires - Semitec 104GT)

  8. Connect the other end of the earth/ground wire to the power supply.
    • Connect the other end of the earth/ground wire to the power supply.

  9. Make sure the Ground/ Earth connection is good before proceeding by using a multimeter Touch one of the probes onto the earth/ground terminal of the power supply Connect the other probe to the edge of the bed or any other part where bare metal is visible (inside the mounting holes works too)
    • Make sure the Ground/ Earth connection is good before proceeding by using a multimeter

    • Touch one of the probes onto the earth/ground terminal of the power supply

    • Connect the other probe to the edge of the bed or any other part where bare metal is visible (inside the mounting holes works too)

    • Set your multimeter to the lowest resistance rating (often this is 200Ω)

    • Only proceed to the next step if you obtain a reading of less that 1Ω

  10. The SSR allows you to power the heated bed with mains power 110/240 VAC but control the PMW via your 12/24 VDC control board.
    • The SSR allows you to power the heated bed with mains power 110/240 VAC but control the PMW via your 12/24 VDC control board.

    • The Load side is where you will be connecting the live to the bed. 110/240 VAC.

    • The Input side is where you connect the positive and negative from the Heated bed output of the control board. 12/24 VDC

  11. Bed to SSR Load Diagram.
    • Bed to SSR Load Diagram.

  12. connect one of the red wires from the heated bed to one of the pins on the Load side. It doesn't matter which red wire you choose, to keep things simple for later  use the number 1 terminal on the SSR.
    • connect one of the red wires from the heated bed to one of the pins on the Load side.

    • It doesn't matter which red wire you choose, to keep things simple for later use the number 1 terminal on the SSR.

    • Make sure you use a well crimped fork connector.

    • Before you move on make sure it is connected to the Load side. VAC

    • Make sure the connection is solid and won't come loose on it's own.

  13. Connect one end of the brown live wire to the Load side of the SSR in terminal 2. Secure the fork in the terminal using a screwdriver.
    • Connect one end of the brown live wire to the Load side of the SSR in terminal 2.

    • Secure the fork in the terminal using a screwdriver.

    • Make sure the connection is solid and won't come loose on it's own.

  14. Connect the other end of the brown live wire to the power supply.
    • Connect the other end of the brown live wire to the power supply.

  15. Connect the second red wire from the head bed into the neutral terminal of the power supply.
    • Connect the second red wire from the head bed into the neutral terminal of the power supply.

  16. Connect the negative from the SSR Input side to the negative from the Control board Bed output. Connect the Positive from the SSR Input to the Positive from the control board bed output.
    • Connect the negative from the SSR Input side to the negative from the Control board Bed output.

    • Connect the Positive from the SSR Input to the Positive from the control board bed output.

    • This is a DC connection so polarity is important.

  17. Connect the two blue thermistor wires to the temperature sensor pin on the control board.
    • Connect the two blue thermistor wires to the temperature sensor pin on the control board.

    • In this example I have used the connector that comes with the Duet WiFi/Ethernet boards.

  18. Swiss clips often come with a  tab on the end which can damage the silicone beds . DO NOT USE THE CLIPS IN THIS CONFIGURATION
    • Swiss clips often come with a tab on the end which can damage the silicone beds .

    • DO NOT USE THE CLIPS IN THIS CONFIGURATION

    • Use a pair of pliers to remove this tab before using them to secure your glass plate.

  19. Secure the Borosilicate glass to the high temperature bed using the modifyed swiss clips.
    • Secure the Borosilicate glass to the high temperature bed using the modifyed swiss clips.

    • you can also use bulldog clips for this, which don't require any modification.

Conclusion

Fo additional information:

https://e3d-online.com/blog/2018/10/22/%...

Dan Rock

Member since: 06/07/2018

7,880 Reputation

18 Guides authored

9 Comments

Can you Guys also add a section on typical firmware changes needed? Such as updating the thermistor configuration, and any other recommended firmware changes (mainly heated bed preferences)

Juan Cabrera - Reply

Hi Juan,

I will have a look into adding any firmware modifications but there isn’t really anything to change, in terms of the thermistor it is the same as our standard thermistor so set it for temp sensor type 5 in marlin, and type 8 for repetier etc.

Dan Rock -

Can the 300 by 300 be used with the CR10? Has anybody done this?

Richard - Reply

I don’t think it’s a matter of whether or not you can. These types of mods have to be DIY’d to any printer. I haven’t done one myself yet (looking into it and still concerned about the PSU requirements), but in your case it’s probably a matter of whether or not the 300x300 bed fits your printer and if you can (and are comfortable) with wiring it. This guy did a mains wired silicone bed to a CR10S if that helps. Looks a bit more complicated, since the CR10S has adapter style plugs that need to be unsoldered. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhjqfMHy...

John -

It looks like you’re using a standard nylon or vinyl insulated ring terminal, but those are often rated to no more than 100c. Wouldn’t it be necessary to use a high temp ring terminal if it’s going to make contact with the bed?

John - Reply

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