Skip to main content

Introduction

Purchase your Hemera here: https://e3d-online.com/e3d-hemera-175-ki...

For the printed parts please see:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:400939...

for Bl touch users please see:

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-...

Please note that this guide is assuming the use of a fully assembled and hot tightened Hemera unit if you have not yet fully assembled and hot tightened your unit please see: Hemera Assembly Guides

Mounting a Hemera to a Creality Ender 3 is easy, and we provide most of the tools you'll need. Please note, though, that you should be very careful of the following safety cautions:

  • Be aware of your electronics. Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.
  • Be aware when you heat up your new hotend not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.
  • The standard Hemera is capable of printing up to 285°C, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the Thermistor cartridge with a PT100, the Aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.
  • Firmware modification is not optional it is a mandatory step,
  • Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match the power supply of your printer. All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge. Taking an ohm reading is the most reliable method of testing what voltage/ wattage you have received.
  • Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire. If you are unsure double check the rating on your power supply.
  • Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.
  • We provide these guides as a reference to show that it is possible to mount a Hemera to a Creality Ender 3. Users should be mindful that your specific use case may vary and further modifications or additions may be required.
  1. Raise the X gantry to roughly the middle of the Z axis to allow you to have good access.
    • Raise the X gantry to roughly the middle of the Z axis to allow you to have good access.

    • Make sure you have unloaded the filament from the Ender 3.

    • Make sure the hotend has been allowed to cool to room temperature before beginning any modifications.

    • Make sure you turn off and unplug the printer before making any modifications.

    • This guide assumes the full assembly of Hermes if you haven't already done so follow this link before proceeding.

  2. Gather:
    • Gather:

    • x1 2mm Allen key.

    • x1 2.5mm Allen key.

    • x1 3mm Allen key.

    • x1 8mm spanner/ Adjustable wrench

    • x1 10mm socket wrench

  3. Gather:
    • Gather:

    • x1 Hermes Ender 3 Mount part A

    • x1 Hermes Ender 3 mount part B

    • x1 Part cooling fan duct

  4. Locate the two button head screws that fasten the guard to the mounting plate. Unscrew the the two screws that secure the guard to the mounting plate. Move the guard out of the way to allow access to the hotend.
    • Locate the two button head screws that fasten the guard to the mounting plate.

    • Unscrew the the two screws that secure the guard to the mounting plate.

    • Move the guard out of the way to allow access to the hotend.

    • Do not touch the hotend unless it is at room temperature. If you have recently been printing let it cool down.

  5. Unscrew the two screws securing the Ender hotend to the carriage assembly. Do not touch the hotend unless it is at room temperature. If you have recently been printing let it cool down.
    • Unscrew the two screws securing the Ender hotend to the carriage assembly.

    • Do not touch the hotend unless it is at room temperature. If you have recently been printing let it cool down.

  6. Rest the hotend and guard on the bed. The carriage assembly should now having nothing attached but its wheels and belt.
    • Rest the hotend and guard on the bed.

    • The carriage assembly should now having nothing attached but its wheels and belt.

  7. Looking at the carriage assembly, you should find that the the top two screws have the button head on the hotend side of the mount. The bottom screw will be the other way round with the nylock nut on the hotend side of the carriage assembly.
    • Looking at the carriage assembly, you should find that the the top two screws have the button head on the hotend side of the mount.

    • The bottom screw will be the other way round with the nylock nut on the hotend side of the carriage assembly.

  8. Remove the 3 guide wheels from the carriage assembly. Place the parts in a safe place so you don't lose them.
    • Remove the 3 guide wheels from the carriage assembly.

    • Place the parts in a safe place so you don't lose them.

  9. Remove the remaining guide wheels from the carriage assembly. Remove the remaining guide wheels from the carriage assembly.
    • Remove the remaining guide wheels from the carriage assembly.

  10. Place Hermes mount part A to the Ender 3 mounting plate.
    • Place Hermes mount part A to the Ender 3 mounting plate.

    • Slot the top screw in to hold it in place.

  11. The top two wheels should be assembled as follows: Screw
    • The top two wheels should be assembled as follows:

    • Screw

    • Printed mount

    • Metal mount

    • Aluminium spacer

    • Wheel

    • Nut

  12. The top two wheels are assembled identically.
    • The top two wheels are assembled identically.

    • Fasten using an Allen key and adjustable wrench.

  13. The bottom screw is assembled the opposite way round to the top two screws. The bottom screw uses an eccentric nut in order to tension the wheel.
    • The bottom screw is assembled the opposite way round to the top two screws.

    • The bottom screw uses an eccentric nut in order to tension the wheel.

    • The eccentric nut drops into the bottom hole allowing correct location.

  14. From the front side place the nylock nut
    • From the front side place the nylock nut

    • Fasten using a 10 mm socket wrench.

    • The same Allen key is used to fasten the head of the bolt.

  15. If the mount feels wobbly after fully fastened, don't panic. This is where the eccentric spacer comes into play.
    • If the mount feels wobbly after fully fastened, don't panic.

    • This is where the eccentric spacer comes into play.

    • You may need to raise the x gantry in order to use a spanner.

    • Rotating the leadscrew by hand is the easiest way to do this.

    • Using the 10mm spanner rotate the eccentric nut until you get a good tension on the new mount, using a hand to test for play is a useful indicator.

  16. Gather:
    • Gather:

    • Fully assembled Hermes.

    • Hermes Mount Part B

    • x4 M3 x 6mm

    • Pictured here are shorter cable lengths than you will have, this is for quick disconnect, you do not need to do the same.

  17. Place x2 square nuts in the t slots. Note the orientation of Hermes.
    • Place x2 square nuts in the t slots.

    • Note the orientation of Hermes.

  18. Using x4 M3 x 4mm screws Fasten the Hermes to Part B of the mount into the x4 M3 square nuts.
    • Using x4 M3 x 4mm screws

    • Fasten the Hermes to Part B of the mount into the x4 M3 square nuts.

    • For neater cable management have the thermistor and heater cartridge exiting behind the heater block, when you are facing Hermes.

    • Pictured here are shortened wire lengths for quick removal, you do not need to do the same.

    • Be aware it is possible to crack the t slots if you use screws that are too long and bottoms out. Our recommendation is to use screws that protrude 3mm +- 0.25mm from the mounting surface to go into the T-Slots. Over tightening also risks snapping the T slot.

  19. insert x3 square nuts into the backside of Part A on the Hermes mount.
    • insert x3 square nuts into the backside of Part A on the Hermes mount.

  20. Place Part B onto Part A. You may want to hold your hand over the square nut to keep it in place while fastening the screw. Fasten all 3 screws with an Allen key.
    • Place Part B onto Part A.

    • You may want to hold your hand over the square nut to keep it in place while fastening the screw.

    • Fasten all 3 screws with an Allen key.

  21. Take the original hotend assembly.
    • Take the original hotend assembly.

    • Check to make sure the assembly is fully cooled down before handling.

  22. Remove the M2 screws that fasten the part cooling fan. Release the part cooling fan from the duct.
    • Remove the M2 screws that fasten the part cooling fan.

    • Release the part cooling fan from the duct.

  23. Remove all the cable ties from the wiring sheath/ Bowden tube.
    • Remove all the cable ties from the wiring sheath/ Bowden tube.

  24. Orientate the printer so that the bottom is facing you. Remove the bottom electronics panel. Remove the bottom electronics panel.
    • Orientate the printer so that the bottom is facing you.

    • Remove the bottom electronics panel.

  25. Remove the fabric tape binding the tool head wires together.
    • Remove the fabric tape binding the tool head wires together.

  26. Unscrew the old heater cartridge from the terminal block. Unscrew the old heater cartridge from the terminal block.
    • Unscrew the old heater cartridge from the terminal block.

  27. Unplug the part cooling fan
    • Unplug the part cooling fan

  28. Unscrew the heat sink cooling  fan.
    • Unscrew the heat sink cooling fan.

  29. Unplug the thermistor.
    • Unplug the thermistor.

  30. Unplug the cable from the extruder stepper motor. Unplug the cable from the extruder stepper motor. Unplug the cable from the extruder stepper motor.
    • Unplug the cable from the extruder stepper motor.

  31. Remove the old Extruder. Remove the old Extruder. Remove the old Extruder.
    • Remove the old Extruder.

  32. Wrap electrical tape around the connection side of the wires to keep them together. Pull the wires from the HotEnd side to release them from the cable sleeve.
    • Wrap electrical tape around the connection side of the wires to keep them together.

    • Pull the wires from the HotEnd side to release them from the cable sleeve.

    • You may have to do a push and pull motion to deal with the stretching properties of the cable sleeve.

  33. Straighten out the Hot End wires. Don't yank or pull excessively on the wires.
    • Straighten out the Hot End wires.

    • Don't yank or pull excessively on the wires.

    • Wrap electrical tape round the wires on the connection end.

    • This image shows a previous iteration of the mount, the process still applies.

  34. Feed the wires through the cable sleeve. You may have to use this bulging technique to slide the cables through.
    • Feed the wires through the cable sleeve.

    • You may have to use this bulging technique to slide the cables through.

  35. Connect the thermistor, heater cartridge heat sink cooling fan and part cooling fan to the board. Use the board diagram to make sure you connect to the correct places. You will need to source a relevant connector/ ferrule to make sure you get good connections.
    • Connect the thermistor, heater cartridge heat sink cooling fan and part cooling fan to the board.

    • Use the board diagram to make sure you connect to the correct places.

    • You will need to source a relevant connector/ ferrule to make sure you get good connections.

  36. Tip the printer so the base is facing you. Press the new cables in the slot in the extrusion.
    • Tip the printer so the base is facing you.

    • Press the new cables in the slot in the extrusion.

    • Screw the bottom plate back on.

    • This step is just the reverse of the above, just with the new wires.

  37. Plug the cable into the Hermes Motor. Plug the cable into the Hermes Motor.
    • Plug the cable into the Hermes Motor.

  38. Place the Stock part cooling fan on the duct as shown.
    • Place the Stock part cooling fan on the duct as shown.

  39. Insert  x2 M3x 10 screws There are two options here either source some M2 square nuts and reuse the original screws or drill out the holes to slightly larger than 3mm and use standard M3 square nuts.
    • Insert x2 M3x 10 screws

    • There are two options here either source some M2 square nuts and reuse the original screws or drill out the holes to slightly larger than 3mm and use standard M3 square nuts.

    • Fasten the x2 M3 x 10mm screws in place.

  40. Alternatively if you wish to use a more powerful part cooling fan such as a 40 x 40 x 20 mm blower fan. use this mount. The 40 x 40 x 20  mount is fastened using the x2 top mounting holes with x2 M3 x 10 screws.
    • Alternatively if you wish to use a more powerful part cooling fan such as a 40 x 40 x 20 mm blower fan. use this mount.

    • The 40 x 40 x 20 mount is fastened using the x2 top mounting holes with x2 M3 x 10 screws.

  41. To give the cable bundle some guidance you may wish to insert a piece of filament into the cable wrap to act as a spine. Use of the natural curve of the fialement will give the cable bundle a suitible shape.
    • To give the cable bundle some guidance you may wish to insert a piece of filament into the cable wrap to act as a spine.

    • Use of the natural curve of the fialement will give the cable bundle a suitible shape.

    • 2.85mm filament was used here, other options may be available.

  42. Gather the bundle of wires. Use the two slots in Part A of the Hermes mount to secure the wiring in place.
    • Gather the bundle of wires.

    • Use the two slots in Part A of the Hermes mount to secure the wiring in place.

Finish Line

3 other people completed this guide.

Dan Rock

Member since: 06/07/2018

21,496 Reputation

40 Guides authored

24 Comments

I’m trying to put my Hemera on my CR-10S and the stepper cable provided with my Hemera is pinned differently than the cables that came with my CR-10S Yours [XOXXXO] CR-10S steppers are wired [XOXXOX] where the X is a live pin and and O is non wired pin in the plug. I don’t want to burn out my board.

Tony MacDonald - Reply

Hi , you can use the stock cable

Yves lefebvre -

the same obstacle here (cr-10S)

the stock cable is a lot shorter I would like to solder the hermes supplied cable with the existing one.

se photo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/t3wdk2yjuse8hf...

Rick Treffers -

found a video that thit help me extend the wires https://youtu.be/ntYkoTigPlQ

Rick Treffers -

Hi Tony,

If the stepper motor cable is causing issues you can switch the middle two wires in the connector.

Dan Rock - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 19

Past 7 Days: 154

Past 30 Days: 703

All Time: 30,647