Introduction
Purchase your Hemera here: https://e3d-online.com/e3d-hemera-175-ki...
For the printed parts please see:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:400939...
for Bl touch users please see:
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-...
Please note that this guide is assuming the use of a fully assembled and hot tightened Hemera unit if you have not yet fully assembled and hot tightened your unit please see: Hemera Assembly Guides
Mounting a Hemera to a Creality Ender 3 is easy, and we provide most of the tools you'll need. Please note, though, that you should be very careful of the following safety cautions:
- Be aware of your electronics. Don't work on your printer while it is plugged in or turned on.
- Be aware when you heat up your new hotend not to burn yourself on the heater block nozzle or heater cartridge.
- The standard Hemera is capable of printing up to 285°C, do not exceed these temperatures unless you have replaced the Thermistor cartridge with a PT100, the Aluminium heater block with a Plated copper heater block, and the Brass nozzle for a Plated copper, Hardened steel or Nozzle X.
- Firmware modification is not optional it is a mandatory step,
- Make sure you have ordered and received the correct voltage heater and fan to match the power supply of your printer. All of our current heater cartridges should have the voltage and wattage laser engraved on the cartridge. Taking an ohm reading is the most reliable method of testing what voltage/ wattage you have received.
- Connecting 12v parts to a 24v power supply can result in overheating, component damage, or fire. If you are unsure double check the rating on your power supply.
- Your HotEnd and your printer are your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damages caused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.
- We provide these guides as a reference to show that it is possible to mount a Hemera to a Creality Ender 3. Users should be mindful that your specific use case may vary and further modifications or additions may be required.
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Raise the X gantry to roughly the middle of the Z axis to allow you to have good access.
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Gather:
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x1 2mm Allen key.
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x1 2.5mm Allen key.
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x1 3mm Allen key.
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x1 8mm spanner/ Adjustable wrench
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x1 10mm socket wrench
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Gather:
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x1 Hermes Ender 3 Mount part A
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x1 Hermes Ender 3 mount part B
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x1 Part cooling fan duct
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Locate the two button head screws that fasten the guard to the mounting plate.
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Unscrew the the two screws that secure the guard to the mounting plate.
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Move the guard out of the way to allow access to the hotend.
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Unscrew the two screws securing the Ender hotend to the carriage assembly.
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Rest the hotend and guard on the bed.
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The carriage assembly should now having nothing attached but its wheels and belt.
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Looking at the carriage assembly, you should find that the the top two screws have the button head on the hotend side of the mount.
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The bottom screw will be the other way round with the nylock nut on the hotend side of the carriage assembly.
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Remove the 3 guide wheels from the carriage assembly.
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Place the parts in a safe place so you don't lose them.
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Remove the remaining guide wheels from the carriage assembly.
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Place Hermes mount part A to the Ender 3 mounting plate.
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Slot the top screw in to hold it in place.
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The top two wheels should be assembled as follows:
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Screw
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Printed mount
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Metal mount
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Aluminium spacer
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Wheel
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Nut
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The top two wheels are assembled identically.
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Fasten using an Allen key and adjustable wrench.
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The bottom screw is assembled the opposite way round to the top two screws.
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The bottom screw uses an eccentric nut in order to tension the wheel.
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The eccentric nut drops into the bottom hole allowing correct location.
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From the front side place the nylock nut
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Fasten using a 10 mm socket wrench.
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The same Allen key is used to fasten the head of the bolt.
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If the mount feels wobbly after fully fastened, don't panic.
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This is where the eccentric spacer comes into play.
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You may need to raise the x gantry in order to use a spanner.
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Rotating the leadscrew by hand is the easiest way to do this.
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Using the 10mm spanner rotate the eccentric nut until you get a good tension on the new mount, using a hand to test for play is a useful indicator.
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Remove the M2 screws that fasten the part cooling fan.
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Release the part cooling fan from the duct.
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Orientate the printer so that the bottom is facing you.
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Remove the bottom electronics panel.
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Wrap electrical tape around the connection side of the wires to keep them together.
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Pull the wires from the HotEnd side to release them from the cable sleeve.
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Alternatively if you wish to use a more powerful part cooling fan such as a 40 x 40 x 20 mm blower fan. use this mount.
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The 40 x 40 x 20 mount is fastened using the x2 top mounting holes with x2 M3 x 10 screws.
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Gather the bundle of wires.
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Use the two slots in Part A of the Hermes mount to secure the wiring in place.
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For firmware modification please see: Hemera Ender 3 firmware modifications
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For VREF adjustments please see: 05 - E3D Hemera Current Adjustments (VREF)
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For the board used in this guide A4988 stepper drivers were used therefore the VREF value should be 0.5v.
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24 Comments
I’m trying to put my Hemera on my CR-10S and the stepper cable provided with my Hemera is pinned differently than the cables that came with my CR-10S Yours [XOXXXO] CR-10S steppers are wired [XOXXOX] where the X is a live pin and and O is non wired pin in the plug. I don’t want to burn out my board.
Hi , you can use the stock cable
the same obstacle here (cr-10S)
the stock cable is a lot shorter I would like to solder the hermes supplied cable with the existing one.
found a video that thit help me extend the wires https://youtu.be/ntYkoTigPlQ