Mounting Considerations

The heatsink has 3 mounting holes on the back face, opposite the fan, and also 3 mounting holes available on the top face. These are provided to allow easy design of mounting systems for most printers. You should only need to use one set of the three holes. It is important to respect the airflow from the fan and over the heatsink. The air must be able to enter the fan from the front face, and crucially it must be able to exit from the side of the heatsink without being impeded. If the airflow over the fins is restricted then the hotend will overheat, and will fail to function.

  1. Gather
    • Gather

      • 30mm Fan

      • 2 Plasti-fast Screws

      • Cyclops/Chimera Heatsink

  2. The sticker of the fan must face towards to fins of the heatsink in order that the fan blows air through the heatsink.
    • The sticker of the fan must face towards to fins of the heatsink in order that the fan blows air through the heatsink.

    • Plan the direction you want your wire from your fan to come out.

    • Screw in the fan onto heatsink using the two supplied silver self tapping screws for metal. Use the top-right and bottom-left screw holes.

    • Gather

      • 2 Collets

      • Heatsink

      • PTFE Tubing

    • Because the Cyclops/Chimera heatsink is so compact, it is best to use it with a bowden setup.

    • If you still want to use a direct setup, skip inserting the collet, but make sure you still insert PTFE tubing to guide filament through the heatsink.

    • Press in the two collets into the holes with the brass ring.

    • Connect the two collet clips

    • Gather

      • Heatsink

      • 4x 3mm Grub Screws

      • The Smaller, 1.5mm Hex key

    • Screw in the 4 grub screws into the sides of the heatsink.

    • These screws will tighten the heat breaks to the heatsink later. For now, just screw them in so you don't lose them.

    • Use the 3 M3 dome screws left over to mount your heatsink to your printer, when you're ready to do so.

    • Gather

      • 2x 1.5mm Steel Balls (Don't lose them!!!)

      • 2x M4 Grub Screws (larger than the ones in the cold side kit)

      • Cyclops Heater Block

    • One side at a time: drop the steel balls into the threaded channels on the sides of the heater block.

    • Screw in a grub screw on each side to hold the ball in place

    • Don't worry about the tightness of the screws, we'll be hot-tightening them later.

    • The last photo shows both sides assembled

    • Gather

      • Your Heater Block

      • 2x Cyclops Heat Breaks

      • Cyclops Nozzle

      • Note that the Cyclops heat breaks have a flat bit on the lower threading, compared to the Kraken heat breaks which are completely smooth.

    • Screw the two Heat-Breaks into the top of the heater block.

    • These will be hot-tightened later, so don't worry about tightness.

    • Screw in the nozzle.

    • Note that Cyclops nozzles are special, and not compatible with the rest of the E3D Ecosystem.

    • Don't worry about tightness, we'll be hot-tightening later

    • Gather

      • Heater Cartridge

      • Heater Block

      • Smaller, M3 Grub Screw.

    • Slid in the heater cartridge into your heater block. Position it right in the center.

    • Screw in the grub screw on the bottom of the heater block, and tighten to hold the cartridge in place.

    • You can have the wires coming out either side of the heater block, but we recommend matching this picture and having them extend from the left when looking at the thermsitor holes on the front.

    • Gather

      • Thermistor

      • 2x Ferrules

      • Thermistor Wire

      • Fiberglass sleeving

      • Heatshrink

      • M3 Screw and Washer

    • Cut the blue glass-fiber sleeving into 2 x 35mm lengths and slide them onto the legs of the thermistor.

    • Holding the thermistor between your finger and thumb, make a 90º bend in the legs about 5mm from the tip of the bead.

    • Place the bead of the thermistor into the hole, and fasten in place using the M3x4 screw and washer.

    • Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening.

    • Visually check that the blue sleeving is insulating the legs of the thermistor right down to the bead. If the legs make electrical contact with the block or each other your temperature readings will be incorrect and you risk overheating.

    • Strip the ends of the red and black thermistor cable (~5mm).

    • Put a length of heatshrink over each wire.

    • Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg, if you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the HotEnd it makes it easier to push them over the wires later.

    • Form the thermistor wire and bare portion of the thermistor legs into hooks, and hook the legs together.

    • Push the ferrule over the bare portions of the wires ready to crimp into place.

    • Crimp the ferrules by firmly crushing them with a pair of pliers. You can use a fancy ferrule crimping tool if you have one, but it's not needed. Repeat the process for the other leg.

    • Slide the heatshrink down over the now crushed ferrules.

    • Shrink into place with a heat source such as a soldering iron, hot air gun or even a flame.

    • Cable-tie together your wires to provide strain-relief for your thermistor cable

    • Plug your electronics into your electronics board.

    • Clean up your wiring now, not later! Make sure your wires won't get snagged anywhere and are nicely organised.

    • Configure your Printer's firmware for your new Cyclops. Click through to the guide that matches your printer's firmware, then return here when you're done.

    • Next, we're going to heat up your hotend to tighten the nozzle, heat breaks and the grub screws holding the balls in place.

    • Make sure that you place your HotEnd somewhere that can take the heat it will give off!

    • Don't burn yourself when heating your hotend!

    • You should hot tighten at 285°C

    • Begin tightening the M4 grub screws, you will feel the balls slide along the under-sized hole as they progress forwards.

    • When you feel the resistance increase significantly, the balls have reached the end of their travel and you are done.

    • The grub screws should now be approximately flush with the surface of the block.

    • Use the supplied spanner to tighten up the heat breaks.

    • You should get ⅛ to ¼ turn out of them now that everything is hot.

    • Use a 6mm spanner to tighten up the nozzle.

    • As with the heat breaks you should get ⅛ to ¼ turn.

    • Cool down your HotEnd, and make sure you don't burn yourself on the next steps.

    • Gather:

      • Completed Hot-Side

      • Cold-Side

      • Thermal Paste Sachet

    • Apply heatsink compound onto the surface of the heat breaks sparingly.

    • You don't need to use the whole sachet.

    • Slide the heat breaks up into the Heat Sink.

    • There are 4 grub screw holes on both sides of the heatsink to allow the user the choice of securing the Heat Breaks from the front or the back. Which is more convenient will depend on your mounting arrangements.

    • Tighten the 4 grub screws to secure the heat break in place

    • The grub screws should be tightened up only enough to secure them, excessive tightening of the grub screws will damage the surface of the Heat Breaks.

    • Wash your hands after working with thermal paste

    • Finish securing your new Cyclops to your printer if you haven't already.

    • Clean up your wiring if you haven't already.

    • You're all done! All you have left is some slicer calibration.

Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

Gabe S.

Member since: 08/08/2017

13,090 Reputation

41 Guides authored



Could you explain to me how the inside of the heatblock works? Mine is currently jammed up crazy due to burnt material. I have another 1.75 mm ball inside an would like to know if that is normal. I need to clear the blockage without damaging it.

joe - Reply

Hi Joe,

If you contact we will be able to help you out with this.

Dan Rock -

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