Introduction
Mounting Considerations
The heatsink has 3 mounting holes on the back face, opposite the fan, and also 3 mounting holes available on the top face. These are provided to allow easy design of mounting systems for most printers. You should only need to use one set of the three holes. It is important to respect the airflow from the fan and over the heatsink. The air must be able to enter the fan from the front face, and crucially it must be able to exit from the side of the heatsink without being impeded. If the airflow over the fins is restricted then the hotend will overheat, and will fail to function.
Tools
Parts
- Plastic Screws × 2
- Collet × 2
- Collet Clip × 2
- 30mm Fan
- Cyclops Heatsink
- PTFE Tubing
- M3 Grub Screw × 5
- M3x10 Socket Dome Screw × 3
- 1.5mm Steel Balls × 2
- Cyclops Heater Block
- M4 Grub Screws × 2
- Cyclops Heat Break × 2
- Cyclops Nozzle
- Heater Cartridge
- Semitec Thermistor
- Fiberglass Sleeving
- Heatshrink
- M3x5 Dome Socket Screw
- M3 Washer
- Ferrules × 2
- Thermistor Extension Wire
- Ziptie
- Thermal Paste Sachet
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Press in the two collets into the holes with the brass ring.
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Connect the two collet clips
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Gather
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Heatsink
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4x 3mm Grub Screws
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The Smaller, 1.5mm Hex key
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Use the 3 M3 dome screws left over to mount your heatsink to your printer, when you're ready to do so.
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Gather
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2x 1.5mm Steel Balls (Don't lose them!!!)
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2x M4 Grub Screws (larger than the ones in the cold side kit)
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Cyclops Heater Block
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One side at a time: drop the steel balls into the threaded channels on the sides of the heater block.
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Screw in a grub screw on each side to hold the ball in place
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Don't worry about the tightness of the screws, we'll be hot-tightening them later.
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The last photo shows both sides assembled
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Gather
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Your Heater Block
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2x Cyclops Heat Breaks
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Cyclops Nozzle
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Note that the Cyclops heat breaks have a flat bit on the lower threading, compared to the Kraken heat breaks which are completely smooth.
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Slid in the heater cartridge into your heater block. Position it right in the center.
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Screw in the grub screw on the bottom of the heater block, and tighten to hold the cartridge in place.
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Gather
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Thermistor
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2x Ferrules
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Thermistor Wire
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Fiberglass sleeving
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Heatshrink
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M3 Screw and Washer
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Cut the blue glass-fiber sleeving into 2 x 35mm lengths and slide them onto the legs of the thermistor.
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Holding the thermistor between your finger and thumb, make a 90º bend in the legs about 5mm from the tip of the bead.
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Place the bead of the thermistor into the hole, and fasten in place using the M3x4 screw and washer.
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Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening.
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Strip the ends of the red and black thermistor cable (~5mm).
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Put a length of heatshrink over each wire.
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Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg, if you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the HotEnd it makes it easier to push them over the wires later.
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Form the thermistor wire and bare portion of the thermistor legs into hooks, and hook the legs together.
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Push the ferrule over the bare portions of the wires ready to crimp into place.
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Crimp the ferrules by firmly crushing them with a pair of pliers. You can use a fancy ferrule crimping tool if you have one, but it's not needed. Repeat the process for the other leg.
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Slide the heatshrink down over the now crushed ferrules.
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Shrink into place with a heat source such as a soldering iron, hot air gun or even a flame.
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Cable-tie together your wires to provide strain-relief for your thermistor cable
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Plug your electronics into your electronics board.
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Clean up your wiring now, not later! Make sure your wires won't get snagged anywhere and are nicely organised.
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Configure your Printer's firmware for your new Cyclops. Click through to the guide that matches your printer's firmware, then return here when you're done.
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Smoothieware does not seem to support shared/mixing extruders like the Cyclops out of the box.
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Next, we're going to heat up your hotend to tighten the nozzle, heat breaks and the grub screws holding the balls in place.
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You should hot tighten at 285°C
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Begin tightening the M4 grub screws, you will feel the balls slide along the under-sized hole as they progress forwards.
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When you feel the resistance increase significantly, the balls have reached the end of their travel and you are done.
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The grub screws should now be approximately flush with the surface of the block.
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Use the supplied spanner to tighten up the heat breaks.
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You should get ⅛ to ¼ turn out of them now that everything is hot.
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Use a 6mm spanner to tighten up the nozzle.
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As with the heat breaks you should get ⅛ to ¼ turn.
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Apply heatsink compound onto the surface of the heat breaks sparingly.
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You don't need to use the whole sachet.
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2 Comments
Hello
Could you explain to me how the inside of the heatblock works? Mine is currently jammed up crazy due to burnt material. I have another 1.75 mm ball inside an would like to know if that is normal. I need to clear the blockage without damaging it.
Hi Joe,
If you contact support@e3d-online.com we will be able to help you out with this.
Dan Rock -