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    • First things first: you're going to need a copy of Marlin.

    • If you are upgrading an existing 3D printer to use a Cyclops, you should try to get a copy of your current firmware from your printer's manufacturer.

    • If you're building a new printer, or simply want to upgrade to the latest version of Marlin, download it at http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/

    • If you download a fresh version of Marlin you'll have to configure more settings than the ones mentioned in this guide so that it will work well with your printer.

  1. Almost all printers use Arduino IDE to upload fresh firmware, so download it at https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
  2. Unzip Marlin from the zip file you downloaded and put the resulting folder anywhere on your computer for safe keeping.
    • Unzip Marlin from the zip file you downloaded and put the resulting folder anywhere on your computer for safe keeping.

    • Inside this folder, navigate to the Marlin sub-folder, and open the Marlin.ino file. This should open every file in Marlin.

    • Find the Configuration.h file

  3. To set up  the Cyclops+ in non mixing mode (reccomended) set extruders to 2 Next you need to enable a single nozzle .
    • To set up the Cyclops+ in non mixing mode (reccomended) set extruders to 2

    • Next you need to enable a single nozzle .

  4. Change TEMP_SENSOR_0 to type 5.
    • Change TEMP_SENSOR_0 to type 5.

  5. Set  HEATER_0_MAXTEMP to 285
    • Set HEATER_0_MAXTEMP to 285

    • The Max settable temperature on the LCD is 15 less than the max temperature, you will need to set the max temperature to 300°C in the firmware in order to hot tighten at 285°C.

    • Remember to change the max temperature back to 285°C after you have hot tightened.

    • Upload the new firmware to your electronics as you normally would. Typically this means plugging in your printer to your computer, selecting the correct COM port and board type, and pressing the upload button. If you're unsure of how to update your printer's firmware, check with its manufacturer.

    • Make sure normal retraction value is set to 1mm, this is the value we have found works the best.

    • Set the retraction for tool change to 1.5 - 2 mm . lengths longer than 2 mm may cause back flow issues.

    • Look for a wipe and purge tower option, this will create a sacrificial tower to purge the old colour before continuing to the next part of the print.

    • We have found Cyclops+ to work best with a print speed of 25-35 mm/s

Finish Line

Dan Rock

Member since: 06/07/2018

21,496 Reputation

40 Guides authored

2 Comments

I can follow that. I am new to this. I bought a FLSUN I3 plus kit, cheap. I didn’t have a problem assembling the printer. However installing the firmware, the instructions and the files on the SD card are not very friendly. At least to a newbie. I only wish they would have already flashed the board so I could just put it together and print. So I did download the latest of Marlin 1.1.9 bug-fix and Arduino 1.8.10. Maybe you can help me. So, my question(s) is: Is there anything else to input on marlin? Or other settings? How do I go about doing it? I have an MKS GEN L V1.0, Touchscreen LCD, Duel Extruder, Cyclops, Auto level, will add a part cooling fan eventually. It is basically stock and just want to start doing some printing. I don’t know how or at least lack the confidence to do it without someone looking over the shoulder to ensure that all is well.

Deon - Reply

If I wish to use the cyclops as a mixing nozzle with Marlin, what is the settings?

JMaker - Reply

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