Introduction

Note: You'll be working with your printer while it is hot. No matter how experienced you are, be extra careful not to burn yourself!

Tools

Parts

  1. Note: Do not mix and match V6, Volcano, or Cyclops nozzles with the other's heater blocks. Filament will go everywhere and you will be sad. Using pliers rotate the heater block to loosen the heat break from the heat sink.
    • Note: Do not mix and match V6, Volcano, or Cyclops nozzles with the other's heater blocks. Filament will go everywhere and you will be sad.

    • Using pliers rotate the heater block to loosen the heat break from the heat sink.

    • Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor.

    Not sure if I understand why to unscrew the heat-break from the heat sink. Aren’t you tightening the nozzle against the heat-break in step 4? Or do you mean “not tightening against the heat sink”?

    Daniel - Reply

    Hi Daniel, thank you for the feedback I have adjusted the wording to make this step a little clearer.

    Dan Rock -

  2. Unscrew the existing nozzle from the heater block. Be careful when unscrewing the nozzle the last little bit, as it will fall unless you grip it. Don't let it fall on you or something flammable.
    • Unscrew the existing nozzle from the heater block.

    • Be careful when unscrewing the nozzle the last little bit, as it will fall unless you grip it. Don't let it fall on you or something flammable.

    • Use a pair of pliers to move the nozzle to a non flammable surface to let it cool down

  3. If you are not experienced working around a HotEnd while it is hot, we recommend cooling down your HotEnd before inserting the new nozzle.
    • If you are not experienced working around a HotEnd while it is hot, we recommend cooling down your HotEnd before inserting the new nozzle.

    • Screw in your new nozzle

    • Once you have it threaded in, you can heat up your HotEnd again (if you'd cooled it down earlier)

    • Heat up the HotEnd to 285°C for standard setups.

    *Screw the Nozzle all the way in then untighten for a ½ round.

    * Depending on model, you now turn the haeterblock/heatbreak/heatsink untill heatbreak/heatsink are tight up against the nozzle.

    Note: Make sure the nozzle stays at the ½ turn posistion while doing the above.

    Morten Nielsen - Reply

    Please, do not follow the previous comment! Do NOT untighten for a 1/2 round!

    I did this and filament leaked out through the threads.

    Because I had a sock on, I did not notice it right away and filament was pushed clear on top of my heat-block.

    I still do not have it clean yet.

    Darin -

  4. Grip the heater block with pliers or a spanner.
    • Grip the heater block with pliers or a spanner.

    • You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle—this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner.

    • Do not apply force to the heat break, it is more fragile than your heater block or nozzle.

    • Over tightening your nozzle can damage it or your heater block. It's better to have your nozzle be too loose, and proceed to tighten it later, rather than damage your hardware and have to buy new parts.

    • Cool down your HotEnd

    • Re-tighten the heat break into the heatsink

    While heated up to 280 - or at least 30c higher than your highest used temperature, whichever is highest. Meaning you need to heat it to 330-340c if you print PC, or you risk leaking.

    Use a plier or spanner to hold onto the heaterblock while you use a similar tool to tighten the nozzle.

    Morten Nielsen - Reply

  5. To make nozzle changing easier you can print and use the nozzle torque wrench. For our Nozzle we recommend 3nm of torque. A good example of such printable torque wrench can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261305...
    • To make nozzle changing easier you can print and use the nozzle torque wrench. For our Nozzle we recommend 3nm of torque. A good example of such printable torque wrench can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261305...

    • Please note that for the above file the material that you print the toque wrench with is important.

Conclusion

You're all done! Happy printing! If you notice any leaking filament, hot-tighten again–a littler tighter this time.

2 other people completed this guide.

Gabe S.

Member since: 08/08/2017

13,438 Reputation

41 Guides authored

3 Comments

Smaller nozzles exponentially increase print time and are more prone to clogging.  You shouldn't have to print slower but depending on the material, it is sometimes helpful to slightly increase temp to keep the material flowing through the smaller hole.  I constantly change nozzles and even mill my own for special purposes.  The nozzle should be matched to the smallest feature on the part.  I also print a lot of parts with very thin walls, so matching the nozzle to the proper shell with is also very helpful.

Azoay Boni - Reply

I use smaller nozzle which tend to provide a much better printing quality. However, i have to change nozzle regularly as this process is more prone to clogging.

https://bestpowertoolsforyou.com/pressur...

josh benington - Reply

With smaller nozzle sizes it’s recommended to use good quality filament to reduce the likelihood of filament impurities that can clog the nozzle, the filament should also be stored in an airtight container to reduce the risk of dust gathering on the filament. Using a filament cleaner will also further reduce the risk of dust clogging the nozzle.

Dan Rock -

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 10

Past 7 Days: 115

Past 30 Days: 492

All Time: 7,163