Note: You'll be working with your printer while it is hot. No matter how experienced you are, be extra careful not to burn yourself!



Note: Do not mix and match V6, Volcano, or Cyclops nozzles with the other's heater blocks. Filament will go everywhere and you will be sad.
  • Note: Do not mix and match V6, Volcano, or Cyclops nozzles with the other's heater blocks. Filament will go everywhere and you will be sad.

  • Unscrew the heat-break from the HeatSink half a turn to be sure you are not tightening against the heat-break in later stages.

  • Heat up your HotEnd to 285°C. Do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor.

You can normally just heat to 220 to unscrew it. No higher than 240 has ever been needed here.

Morten Nielsen - Reply

Temperature at 220 should be plenty to unscrew the nozzle. 240 at the most if it’s really gunked up with ABS or Nylon.

Morten Nielsen - Reply

Not sure if I understand why to unscrew the heat-break from the heat sink. Aren’t you tightening the nozzle against the heat-break in step 4? Or do you mean “not tightening against the heat sink”?

Daniel - Reply

Unscrew the existing nozzle from the heater block.
  • Unscrew the existing nozzle from the heater block.

  • Be careful when unscrewing the nozzle the last little bit, as it will fall unless you grip it. Don't let it fall on you or something flammable.

  • Use a pair of pliers to move the nozzle to a non flammable surface to let it cool down

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  • If you are not experienced working around a HotEnd while it is hot, we recommend cooling down your HotEnd before inserting the new nozzle.

  • Screw in your new nozzle

  • Once you have it threaded in, you can heat up your HotEnd again (if you'd cooled it down earlier)

*Screw the Nozzle all the way in then untighten for a ½ round.

* Depending on model, you now turn the haeterblock/heatbreak/heatsink untill heatbreak/heatsink are tight up against the nozzle.

Note: Make sure the nozzle stays at the ½ turn posistion while doing the above.

Morten Nielsen - Reply

  • Grip the heater block with pliers or a spanner.

  • You want to aim for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle—this is about as much pressure as you can apply with one finger on a small spanner.

  • Do not apply force to the heat break, it is more fragile than your heater block or nozzle.

  • Over tightening your nozzle can damage it or your heater block. It's better to have your nozzle be too loose, and proceed to tighten it later, rather than damage your hardware and have to buy new parts.

  • Cool down your HotEnd

  • Re-tighten the heat break into the heatsink

While heated up to 280 - or at least 30c higher than your highest used temperature, whichever is highest. Meaning you need to heat it to 330-340c if you print PC, or you risk leaking.

Use a plier or spanner to hold onto the heaterblock while you use a similar tool to tighten the nozzle.

Morten Nielsen - Reply

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You're all done! Happy printing! If you notice any leaking filament, hot-tighten again–a littler tighter this time.

2 other people completed this guide.

Gabe S.

Member since: 08/08/2017

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42 Guides authored


Smaller nozzles exponentially increase print time and are more prone to clogging.  You shouldn't have to print slower but depending on the material, it is sometimes helpful to slightly increase temp to keep the material flowing through the smaller hole.  I constantly change nozzles and even mill my own for special purposes.  The nozzle should be matched to the smallest feature on the part.  I also print a lot of parts with very thin walls, so matching the nozzle to the proper shell with is also very helpful.

Azoay Boni - Reply

I use smaller nozzle which tend to provide a much better printing quality. However, i have to change nozzle regularly as this process is more prone to clogging.

josh benington - Reply

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