Parts
- Titan Extruder Body
- Steel Pinion Gear
- Delrin Gear with Filament Drive Shaft
- M3 Grub Screw
- M3x10 Socket Dome Screw
- PTFE Tubing × 2
- Titan Filament Guide
- M3x30 Screws
- Titan Idler Lever
- M4 Thumbscrew
- Idler Spring
- M4x10 Button Head Screw
- M3 Nut
- Titan Lid
- M3x25 Screw
- Compact but powerful motor (optional extra)
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Before beginning your build, make sure that you have an appropriate mount for your extruder. If you have a commonly upgraded printer (Ultimaker 2, Taz 5/6, Prusa i3, etc) you'll likely be able to find 3D models of well designed Titan mounts on your favourite 3D model sharing site.
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When installing the Titan, you must have something to separate the motor from the extruder body by 2 mm. Typically, a piece of your mounting bracket will attach here and provide this space (for reference take a look at our Prusa Mounting Bracket). Having a separation of more than 2mm will mean you need longer screws to hold the assembly together.
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Gather
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The motor you'll be using + mounting bracket
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Extruder Body + Large Gear
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M3x8mm Screw
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M3 Grub Screw
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Pinion Gear
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The Smallest, 1.5mm Hex Wrench, and Mid-sized, 2.5mm Hex Wrench
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Thread the M3 grub screw into the pinion gear slightly so you don't lose it
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Slip the pinion gear onto the motor shaft with the grub screw facing down, towards the motor.
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Slide it about 3/4 of the way down the shaft and tighten the screw.
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Slot in the Hobb gear (attached to the other gear)
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You need to have the top of the pinion gear flush with the top of the Hobb gear.
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If it isn't—and it likely won't be on the first try—loosen the grub screw and adjust the positioning of the pinion gear on the motor's shaft. You may need to unscrew the extruder body to get at the grub screw.
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When you think you've got it, try pressing down on the Hobb gear lightly to see how it will fare when the whole extruder is screwed in and make sure it's still flush.
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Gather:
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Titan Body
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1.75mm Guide Tube (Marked "L" or "R")
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PTFE Tubing
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V6 Hotend
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Slide the PTFE tubing into your heatsink until it touches the heat break (as far as it will go).
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Measure 16mm of PTFE tubing from the top of your heatsink/hotend and use a sharp knife to cut it there (so as not to deform the tubing).
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Slide the finished assembly into your extruder body. Make sure that the round side of the filament guide is facing down, into the extruder body.
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Screw the M4 nut all the way onto the M4 Screw or Thumbscrew.
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Push the spring over the threaded part of the screw. The nut will eventually let you adjust the tension on your extruder by travelling down the screw and compressing the spring.
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Position the other end of the spring on the little bump on the idler lever.
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Drop this assembly into the extruder body.
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The screw will slot into the nut-channel in the extruder body, and the idler arm will slip onto the motor shaft.
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Make sure that the nut slots into the channel fully and that the idler arm is pressed all the way onto the motor shaft.
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Gather:
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M3x30 Screws
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Extruder Assembly
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Titan Lid
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Shake-proof washer
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M3x25 Screw (the shortest M3 Screw)
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The mid-sized 2.5mm Hex Wrench.
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Press on the lid to your extruder. It should be flush with all the sides of the body.
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Screw the two longer M3 screws that don't have blue patch lock on them into the left two holes on the lid.
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Slip the shake-proof washer onto the screw with the blue patch lock on it.
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Screw in this screw until it is finger tight and no more.
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Try to rotate the large acetal gear to see if it moves smoothly.
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If it is hard to rotate, check the position of the steel pinion gear, it may be too far forward. Adjust it so that it is flush with the front face of the acetal gear and try again.
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If this does not solve the issue, then the screw with the shake-proof washer on it may have been overtightened. If loosening this screw allows the acetal gear to run smoothly then the screw has been overtightened and permanent damage may have been caused to the bearings; seek replacement bearings if this is the case.
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If the large gear exhibits “backlash” (there's play between the large acetal gear and the metal one on the drive shaft), loosen all screws on the lid and rotate the body such that the gears fully mesh.
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Re-tighten the screws as described in the previous steps.
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If you're printing 1.75mm filament, you can guide it a little better by putting a length of PTFE tubing in the top of the idler lever
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Press the tubing into the lever.
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You're done with the mechanical assembly! All that's left is to calibrate your new extruder by updating your firmware and EEPROM. Click on one of the links below to start working on your firmware.
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2 Comments
Please add this type of note to Step 14.
If the Titan Lid does not fit flush, The Pinion Gear might be hindering it to be flush. Loosen the grub screw and adjust the positioning of the pinion gear on the motor's shaft. You may need to unscrew the extruder body to get at the grub screw.
Look at the Titan drawings, assembly info on them…