• Before beginning your build, make sure that you have an appropriate mount for your extruder. If you have a commonly upgraded printer (Ultimaker 2, Taz 5/6, Prusa i3, etc) you'll likely be able to find 3D models of well designed Titan mounts on your favourite 3D model sharing site.

    • When installing the Titan, you must have something to separate the motor from the extruder body by 2 mm. Typically, a piece of your mounting bracket will attach here and provide this space (for reference take a look at our Prusa Mounting Bracket). Having a separation of more than 2mm will mean you need longer screws to hold the assembly together.

    • Please note that there may be extra bolts in the titan fixing kit bag that will be unused.

    There seems to be something wrong here. The instruction say that the motor must be separated from the extruder body by at least 2mm

    I designed my mount with a separation of 3.1 mm. This caused two problems:

    * First in step 16, the grub screw was below the surface of the body, I had to use calipers to measure where the top of the plastic gear was relative to the stepper motor, then disassemble the stepper motor, set the gear with the calipers, and then reassemble.

    * Second, the M3x30 screws provided to attach the cover to the assembly are two short.

    I believe that the instruction should read that the motor and extruder body must be separated by no more than 2mm.

    Back to Fusion 360 to redesign my mount.

    Rick DeNatale - Reply

  1. Gather
    • Gather

      • The motor you'll be using + mounting bracket

      • Extruder Body + Large Gear

      • M3x8mm Screw

      • M3 Grub Screw

      • Pinion Gear

      • The Smallest, 1.5mm Hex Wrench, and Mid-sized, 2.5mm Hex Wrench

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    • Thread the M3 grub screw into the pinion gear slightly so you don't lose it

    • Slip the pinion gear onto the motor shaft with the grub screw facing down, towards the motor.

    • Slide it about 3/4 of the way down the shaft and tighten the screw.

    • The compact but powerful motor has a fully round shaft. - some of the older kits used the slimline motor which has a flat on the shaft.

    Under Incorrect Tools — The grub screw in my kit required a 1/16th” Allen. The included metric Allen would have stripped the grub screw socket. I recommend having this before beginning.

    Mike - Reply

    Confirmed on my build. Better not to provide anything than to provide these wrong tools.

    Stuart Wimbush - Reply

    1/16” allen on mine too, and my compact but powerful motor does not hav a fully round shaft like said above.

    Marcus Weckman - Reply

    • Take your M3 screw that you picked out before and slip it through the hole extruder body in the groove mount (lower leftmost screw hole).

    • Slip the screw through your mounting bracket (including spacer if you're using one) and screw it into your motor.

    “your M3 screw that you picked out before”? When did I pick this out? I don’t see it mentioned in the previous steps.

    Phil Hord - Reply

    In this step, it’s attaching the stepper motor to your bracket. Use the screw it’s talking about to sandwich together the stepper motor to the extruder body, with the mounting bracket in the middle. The m3 screw should bolt together the motor and the extruder at the lower left screw hole on your bracket.

    Chris d'Aunay - Reply

    Ignore my comment above- it should be the bottom right screw fitting, with the gears at the top right if you are looking at it. The e3d hologram should also be visible and readable (aligned correctly)

    Chris d'Aunay - Reply

    In this step you will almost definitely be inserting your mount (which you may well have printed or otherwise sourced apart from this E3D kit). Here are some photos of what mine looked like at this step, with my mount sandwiched in:



    Mount on Motor:


    Screw going in:


    I’d edit this guide and add my photos if I could, but I guess it’s locked for editing at the moment.

    James - Reply

    • Slot in the drive shaft (attached to the other gear)

    • You need to have the top of the pinion gear flush with the top of the drive shaft gear.

    • If it isn't—and it likely won't be on the first try—loosen the grub screw and adjust the positioning of the pinion gear on the motor's shaft. You may need to unscrew the extruder body to get at the grub screw.

    • When you think you've got it, try pressing down on the drive shaft lightly to see how it will fare when the whole extruder is screwed in and make sure it's still flush.

    These instructions don't really illuminate the larger picture, nor say what will happen if you don't align the pinion and drive gears.

    If the drive gear is too far out (away from the motor) it will pinch the idler arm against the heatsink and cause really excessive friction. You won't be able to see it inside the closed unit so you'll just wonder wtf is going on. (this is hinted at in step 30).

    If the drive gear is too close to the motor then it won't be making full contact with the pinion gear which could cause uneven wear or cause the pinion gear to run out of true, which would in turn cause the pinion gear to rub against the idler - again causing excessive friction.

    All this assumes that the pinion gear is correctly installed on the hob, there have been reports of that not always being the case, although it seems OK on mine.

    It is hard to know if you have it aligned correctly until you put the lid on tight and see if you can turn the pinion easily by hand. As in step 30. Test this early and often.

    parenthetical - Reply

    During this step it can be helpful to test-fit with the heatsink, having already inserted its bearing. The hob tends to tilt when only the back end is supported by its bearing, causing the side of the large gear nearest the pinion to change position relative to when it’s supported and aligned with both bearings.

    bruceb - Reply

    • Gather:

      • 1.75mm Filament Guide (marked "L" or "R" depending on mirrored or non-mirrored setup.

      • 1.75mm Bowden Adaptor (metal)

      • 1.75mm Collet Clip

      • PTFE Tubing

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    • Slide in the filament guide (round side down) and bowden adaptor into the bottom groove where you screwed the extruder body to your motor.

    • Press the black collet into the bowden adapter.

    • Clip on the collet clip.

    • It's ok if the adaptor is not completely snug.

    Again a step is missing, which is to plug the black part (whatever it’s called) into the brass insert of the Bowden adaptor before fitting the collet clip.

    Stuart Wimbush - Reply

    Thanks for catching that! I’ve updated the guide to clarify.

    Gabe S. -

    • Slide in your PTFE tubing until it's snug against the filament guide. This is the tubing that will eventually go into your HotEnd, so probably longer than the little bit that comes with the Titan kit.

    • The collet clip should reduce the tube's wiggle once it's pushed in all the way.

    • For 1.75mm filament, the bowden tubing should push into the filament guide.

    • For the next steps, images will show a V6 in the place of the Bowden adaptor. This does not affect the rest of the build.

    I think this should be done with the (blue) collet clip removed; at least that’s how I’ve had success. The whole purpose of the collet clip is to prevent the tubing from being able to slide in or out. This means that the collet clip should not, in fact, be installed at the end of Step 8, but rather at the end of this step.

    Stuart Wimbush - Reply

    Good question. I just went down and checked: you should be able to push the tubing IN with the clip attached. The clip will prevent the tubing from being pulled OUT. If you need to remove the PTFE tube, just pull out the clip and push down on the collet while pulling out the tubing. Thanks for asking, hope this clarifies things.

    Gabe S. - Reply

    Note that this step refers to your full-length piece of PTFE tubing, leading to your hot-end, not the short piece of PTFE tubing included in the kit, which is used in Step 20, below.

    Stuart Wimbush - Reply

    Thanks again, I’ve put that tidbit into the guide.

    Gabe S. -

    • Gather:

      • M4 Thumbscrew

      • OR M4 Button Head Screw

      • M4 Nut

      • Spring

      • Idler Lever

    • The only difference between the thumbscrew and the button head one is ease of use vs. space. If you can, we suggest using the thumbscrew.

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    • Screw the M4 nut all the way onto the M4 Screw or Thumbscrew.

    • Push the spring over the threaded part of the screw. The nut will eventually let you adjust the tension on your extruder by travelling down the screw and compressing the spring.

    • Position the other end of the spring on the little bump on the idler lever.

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    • Drop this assembly into the extruder body.

    • The screw will slot into the nut-channel in the extruder body, and the idler arm will slip onto the motor shaft.

    • It is normal that the shaft sticks out slightly from the lever.

    • Make sure that the nut slots into the channel fully and that the idler arm is pressed all the way onto the motor shaft.

    • Your assembly may look like either photo above, depending on whether you're using the thumbscrew or the dome screw.

    • Do not compress the spring without the Titan lid on!!! It will go flying out and you will lose it. And it could hit someone in the face.

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    • Gather:

      • M3x30 Screws

      • Extruder Assembly

      • Titan Lid

      • Shake-proof washer

      • M3x25 Screw (the shortest M3 Screw)

      • The mid-sized 2.5mm Hex Wrench.

    Add Comment

    • Press on the lid to your extruder. It should be flush with all the sides of the body.

    Add Comment

    • Screw the two longer M3 screws that don't have blue patch lock on them into the left two holes on the lid.

    • Because the extruder is only attached to the motor by one screw at the moment, you may need to wiggle it a little to get them to thread into the motor.

    Typo “don’d” in the first sentence.

    Stuart Wimbush - Reply

    Thanks! Fixed that.

    Gabe S. - Reply

    We could use a single photo that shows (I think):

    top left: 30mm with blue

    top right: 30mm with blue, use washer. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN

    bottom left:30mm no blue

    bottom right:25mm

    Andrew Beattie - Reply

    • Screw the second longest screw into the right hand corner of the lid.

    • This screw goes into the brass insert on the back of the extruder body, not your motor. It just holds the hotend in place.

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    • Slip the shake-proof washer onto the screw with the blue patch lock on it.

    • WARNING - this screw goes through the bearings and so when it is tightened it creates an axial load on the bearings, if this screws is overtightened even once it may cause permanent damage to your bearings which will result in bearing failure -PROCEED WITH CAUTION.

    • Screw in this screw until it is finger tight and no more.

    • The shake-proof washer will prevent this screw from coming loose.

    • There may be some slight visual misalignment of the idler and teeth, this is due to an inconsequential machining error of the filament drive gear. The toothed portion of the shaft is wide enough to accommodate this minor misalignment with no effect on how the teeth engage the filament.

    In the recent Titans that I have received, there is no screw with blue on it. Also, no shake proof washer. Is this not needed any more ?

    Ben Woodcock - Reply

    Hi Ben, if you’re still in need of these parts please do get in touch with support, they’ll get a new fixings kit out to you asap. The shake-proof washer is not required, but is a nice thing to have to make sure that you don’t over-tighten your screws.

    Gabe S. -

    • Try to rotate the large acetal gear to see if it moves smoothly.

    • If it is hard to rotate, check the position of the steel pinion gear, it may be too far forward. Adjust it so that it is flush with the front face of the acetal gear and try again.

    • If this does not solve the issue, then the screw with the shake-proof washer on it may have been overtightened. If loosening this screw allows the acetal gear to run smoothly then the screw has been overtightened and permanent damage may have been caused to the bearings; seek replacement bearings if this is the case.

    Add Comment

    • If the large gear exhibits “backlash” (there's play between the large acetal gear and the metal one on the drive shaft), loosen all screws on the lid and rotate the body such that the gears fully mesh.

    • Re-tighten the screws as described in the previous steps.

    Add Comment

    • If you're printing 1.75mm filament, you can guide it a little better by putting a length of PTFE tubing in the top of the idler lever

    • Press the tubing into the lever.

    • It may be a very tight fit. You can file down the tube if it helps.

    Before filing down the tube, it’s worth trying to insert it while twisting - the twisting motion can help push it through the guide.

    Jesse Williams - Reply

    • You're done with the mechanical assembly! All that's left is to calibrate your new extruder by updating your firmware and EEPROM. Click on one of the links below to start working on your firmware.

    Add Comment

Finish Line

6 other people completed this guide.

Gabe S.

Member since: 08/08/2017

13,048 Reputation

42 Guides authored


These pictures are pretty confusing.. Since this is bowden configuration shouldn’t this show the extruder physically away from the hot end?

Steps 11-15 looks like a direct setup..

Michael Alley - Reply

I’d happily make some small edits that would have helped me, but it seems this guide is locked for editing right now. Perhaps it’s actively being updated, or it’s simply been left in an editing mode, where it shall stay indefinitely?


Regardless, this guide helped me. Thank you Gabe!

James - Reply

Hi James,

You should be able to propose changes now. Sorry about that! Happy to hear your build process went well.

Thanks for improving the documentation,

Gabe Seltzer

Gabe S. -

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