Parts
- Titan Extruder Body
- Steel Pinion Gear
- Delrin Gear with Filament Drive Shaft
- M3 Grub Screw
- M3x10 Socket Dome Screw
- PTFE Tubing × 2
- Titan Filament Guide
- M3x30 Screws
- Titan Idler Lever
- M4 Thumbscrew
- Idler Spring
- M4x10 Button Head Screw
- M3 Nut
- Titan Lid
- M3x25 Screw
- Compact but powerful motor (optional extra)
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Before beginning your build, make sure that you have an appropriate mount for your extruder. If you have a commonly upgraded printer (Ultimaker 2, Taz 5/6, Prusa i3, etc) you'll likely be able to find 3D models of well designed Titan mounts on your favourite 3D model sharing site.
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When installing the Titan, you must have something to separate the motor from the extruder body by 2 mm. Typically, a piece of your mounting bracket will attach here and provide this space (for reference take a look at our Prusa Mounting Bracket). Having a separation of more than 2mm will mean you need longer screws to hold the assembly together.
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Gather
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The motor you'll be using + mounting bracket
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Extruder Body + Large Gear
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M3x8mm Screw
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M3 Grub Screw
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Pinion Gear
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The Smallest, 1.5mm Hex Wrench, and Mid-sized, 2.5mm Hex Wrench
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Thread the M3 grub screw into the pinion gear slightly so you don't lose it
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Slip the pinion gear onto the motor shaft with the grub screw facing down, towards the motor.
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Slide it about 3/4 of the way down the shaft and tighten the screw.
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Slot in the Hobb gear (attached to the other gear)
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You need to have the top of the pinion gear flush with the top of the Hobb gear.
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If it isn't—and it likely won't be on the first try—loosen the grub screw and adjust the positioning of the pinion gear on the motor's shaft. You may need to unscrew the extruder body to get at the grub screw.
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When you think you've got it, try pressing down on the Hobb gear lightly to see how it will fare when the whole extruder is screwed in and make sure it's still flush.
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Gather:
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1.75mm Filament Guide (marked "L" or "R" depending on mirrored or non-mirrored setup.
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1.75mm Bowden Adaptor (metal)
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1.75mm Collet Clip
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PTFE Tubing
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Slide in the filament guide (round side down) and bowden adaptor into the bottom groove where you screwed the extruder body to your motor.
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Press the black collet into the bowden adapter.
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Clip on the collet clip.
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Slide in your PTFE tubing until it's snug against the filament guide. This is the tubing that will eventually go into your HotEnd, so probably longer than the little bit that comes with the Titan kit.
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The collet clip should reduce the tube's wiggle once it's pushed in all the way.
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For 1.75mm filament, the bowden tubing should push into the filament guide.
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For the next steps, images will show a V6 in the place of the Bowden adaptor. This does not affect the rest of the build.
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Screw the M4 nut all the way onto the M4 Screw or Thumbscrew.
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Push the spring over the threaded part of the screw. The nut will eventually let you adjust the tension on your extruder by travelling down the screw and compressing the spring.
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Position the other end of the spring on the little bump on the idler lever.
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Drop this assembly into the extruder body.
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The screw will slot into the nut-channel in the extruder body, and the idler arm will slip onto the motor shaft.
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Make sure that the nut slots into the channel fully and that the idler arm is pressed all the way onto the motor shaft.
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Gather:
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M3x30 Screws
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Extruder Assembly
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Titan Lid
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Shake-proof washer
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M3x25 Screw (the shortest M3 Screw)
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The mid-sized 2.5mm Hex Wrench.
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Press on the lid to your extruder. It should be flush with all the sides of the body.
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Screw the two longer M3 screws that don't have blue patch lock on them into the left two holes on the lid.
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Slip the shake-proof washer onto the screw with the blue patch lock on it.
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Screw in this screw until it is finger tight and no more.
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Try to rotate the large acetal gear to see if it moves smoothly.
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If it is hard to rotate, check the position of the steel pinion gear, it may be too far forward. Adjust it so that it is flush with the front face of the acetal gear and try again.
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If this does not solve the issue, then the screw with the shake-proof washer on it may have been overtightened. If loosening this screw allows the acetal gear to run smoothly then the screw has been overtightened and permanent damage may have been caused to the bearings; seek replacement bearings if this is the case.
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If the large gear exhibits “backlash” (there's play between the large acetal gear and the metal one on the drive shaft), loosen all screws on the lid and rotate the body such that the gears fully mesh.
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Re-tighten the screws as described in the previous steps.
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If you're printing 1.75mm filament, you can guide it a little better by putting a length of PTFE tubing in the top of the idler lever
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Press the tubing into the lever.
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You're done with the mechanical assembly! All that's left is to calibrate your new extruder by updating your firmware and EEPROM. Click on one of the links below to start working on your firmware.
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Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
9 other people completed this guide.
6 Comments
These pictures are pretty confusing.. Since this is bowden configuration shouldn’t this show the extruder physically away from the hot end?
Steps 11-15 looks like a direct setup..
I’d happily make some small edits that would have helped me, but it seems this guide is locked for editing right now. Perhaps it’s actively being updated, or it’s simply been left in an editing mode, where it shall stay indefinitely?
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Regardless, this guide helped me. Thank you Gabe!
Hi James,
You should be able to propose changes now. Sorry about that! Happy to hear your build process went well.
Thanks for improving the documentation,
Gabe Seltzer
Gabe S. -
Is there user documentation of sorts? I am looking for insight on validating my setup (e.g., adjusting the idler, manually extruding filament with the acetal gear—that’s why extrude is embossed on the lid, right?).
You should add a step to adjust the spring tension.