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V6 Hotend, 24v, firmware confusion

I have the Creality CR-10 S PRO , all of the guides online state to get the modified marlin firmware from tiny machines, but now that link isnt available. Our company has the hot end assembled and ready to go , but no one seems to have a firmware for the CR-10s PRO specifically, and although i can modify Marlin 2.0 myself, even the guide says, this isnt everything you have to change in the firmware. Definitely need some assistance.


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Hi Kyle,

your post is missing some information. Do you had 24V before and just want to swap the hotend, which is also 24V or do you want to change from another hotend to the V6 hotend? If you just change the Hotend for the same, there should be no specific need to modify the firmware.

But depending on your setup, there can be things to change.

  1. PID Autotune
  2. that can be done via Pronterface( needs to be activated in the firmware). If you had another hotend before you need calibrate the new hotend, so that the temperature doesnt fluctuate like crazy. So it stays close to your targeted heat( like 210 degrees). Connect your printer with a pc or laptop, open Pronterface, hit connect and then enter M303 C10 S210. The Hotend makes 10 cylces of 210 degrees. It will give you new PID values. Write them down, to add to your marlin for later configurations. And save those values with g code via pronterface directly in the memory of the printer. Use the command M301 P(Pvalue) I(Ivalue) D(Dvalue) for example mine would look like this: M301 P24.22 I2.22 D89.07 Next type M500 into pronterface and send to save the new values.

# Probe(z)-offset

  1. Your nozzle will likly be closer or further away from the head bed. In the worst case scenario the nozzle crashes in your head bed, if you dont change it. If you have a z endstop switch, youll need to adjust the postion first. If you got an inductive or auto level sensor you can skip this step. For an Auto level sensor you need to measure the distance between the the tip of the nozzle and the tip of the auto level sensor. This value needs to be entered in the marlin firmware. Look in configuration.h and search for NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET. there you´ll find 3 values, x,y and z offset. You might need to change all 3 settings. Just measure the distance from the nozzle to the autolevel sensor in the x plane, the y plane and like earlier said in the z direction. You´ll find some help in the configuration.h file to this point.

# Thermal settings

  1. If you changed your hotend, and it has another thermistor, you need to change the thermistor in the configuration.h also. If you dont, you get wrong readings on the temperature which could case not only failed prints but damage. Search for Thermal settings in the configuration.h and look at the list of available thermistors, search the one thats yours( that info should come from the manufacturer. The orginal V6 from E3D has a 100k thermistor. So you need to enter for the TEMP_SENSOR_0 the value 5( should look like this #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5). If you had an V6 hotend before, you dont need to do this, because it should already be set to the correct thermistor.
  2. Print hight in Z direction
  3. If your new hotend is bigger than the old one you need to adjust the maximal print hight, because you lose the 10 mm( just an example) that the new hotend is bigger or longer. So make sure to check for that and change it in the configuration.h under #define Z_MAX_POS, if it was #define Z_MAX_POS 230 befor and your new hotend is longer for 10mm you need to set it to #define Z_MAX_POS 220.

Hope that helps you and gives you a little ( not extremly complete) guide how to change the software yourself. Check other resources too, if some points are still unclear. Or leave a message hear, i try to help.

take care.

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kyle johnson will be eternally grateful.
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